'OUR TO OREGON 1841=2 



JOSEPH WILLIAMS 




Book .lAJ (g-5 



NARRATIVE 



OF A TOUR 



FROM THE STATE OF INDIANA 

TO THE 

OREGON TERRITORY 

IN THE YEARS 1841-2 
By JOSEPH WILLIAMS 



With an Introduction by 
JAMES C. BELL, Jr. 



NEW YORK 

THE CADMUS BOOK SHOP 

1921 






One of an edition of two hun- 
dred and fifty copies printed 
from type and type distributed. 




Press 

Standard Book Company 

MancKester, N. H. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The book here published for the first time is the 
narrative of a traveler who accompanied the first 
emigrants from the United States to the Pacific 
Coast in 1 84 1. It was printed for the author in 
1843 and is practically unknown to scholars or the 
collectors of books relating to the history of west- 
ern America. Its importance to any who are inter- 
ested in this phase of the development of the 
United States will be evident, if for a moment we 
consider certain aspects of the times in which the 
writer lived. 

It is a truism to say that most Americans enjoy 
travel, and indulge themselves in this form of 
amusement to an extreme degree. The glamor of a 
journey, the thought of seeing new places, rather 
than the discomfort and not infrequent hardships, 
fill the minds of all would-be travelers; nor will 
the experience of others often deter those who 
have set their hearts upon visiting far places about 
which rumor has been weaving bright illusions. 
The desire for travel, mere travel for its own sake, 
without other aim than that of satisfying our curi- 
osity, is general among all classes of the American 
people, as one may prove by glancing at the faces 
upon the sightseeing buses of any city street. What 
is, perhaps, not so generally realized is the fact that 
this longing to visit new and distant places, is a 
very old one in America; one frequently gratified 

3 



4 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

by all sorts of people in an earlier day when travel 
was neither luxurious nor safe. 

The book before us is the account of a traveler to 
the Pacific Coast long before railway and automo- 
bile made travel convenient for the tourist. It was 
the day when goods were moved by canal boat or 
raft, and passengers journeyed, either by "elegant" 
river steamers, or in stage coaches, which had diffi- 
culty in moving through muddy roads, that were 
described by Charles Dickens as "having no vari- 
ety but in depth." A few railways had been con- 
structed between nearby cities, and the building of 
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, the first con- 
ceived for the purpose of connecting two impor- 
tant districts of the United States, had been under- 
taken. It was the day when people thought of 
transportation in terms of canals, rather than rail- 
ways, while the idea of paved highways was a mat- 
ter for future concern. 

It was also the day before the country became 
thickly populated; settlement in the Mississippi 
Valley in i8/|0 was confined almost exclusively to 
the neighborhood of navigable streams; the fron- 
tier was the Missouri River. New Englanders 
were settling on the rich lUinois prairies, farmers 
from the north European countries were just be- 
ginning to cultivate the rolling hills of Iowa and 
Wisconsin, which had been recently surveyed by 
the government and thrown open to settlement. 
Beyond the frontier lay the open prairie and the 
Rocky Mountains, west of which was the little 
known region called "the great American desert." 
Many warlike tribes inhabited this vast stretch of 



INTRODUCTION. 5 

country, whose only contact with civiHzation came 
through the occasional missionary and the fearless 
trapper. 

The trappers searched every mountain stream 
for the beaver skins which were used in the man- 
ufacture of gentlemen's hats; but they rarely ven- 
tured into the great desert beyond the Rocky 
Mountains as the game upon which man lived did 
not exist in the sage brush country. No other fur- 
bearing animal was so much sought as the beaver, 
for the possession of a fur coat was not thought a 
mark of wealth and distinction among occidental 
peoples of that day. 

The tourist attractions of the United States 
about 1840 were rather limited for a resident of 
Napoleon, Ripley County, Indiana; a summer 
traveler might take the monotonous and sultry 
boat trip down the Ohio to St. Louis, or go by 
stage to Niagara Falls. At this latter spot of scenic 
grandeur, the tourist's soul would be stirred by the 
roaring of the waters, but there were no inter- 
mediate points of interest to relieve the tedium of 
the journey. Aside from this, there was little to 
do except stay home and raise more grain than a 
farmer could profitably sell. 

There was, however, another alternative for a 
man of sixty-four years who desired to preach to 
others and see the country as well. He might go to 
the Pacific Coast by a route which was literally 
teeming with the varied and fantastic wonders of 
nature. Oregon was occasionally visited by fur 
traders and missionaries, while the peaceful ranch 
life of the Mexicans in California was sometimes 



6 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

disturbed by trappers and horse thieves from Mis- 
souri. It mattered little that almost two thousand 
miles of prairie, mountain and desert separated 
the border towns of Independence and Westport, 
Missouri, from the settlements of Oregon and Cal- 
ifornia. 

In the Willamette Valley of Oregon, near its 
junction with the lower Columbia River, were a few 
farms cultivated by New England missionaries and 
French Canadians, old servants of the Hudson's 
Bay Company. From San Diego to the Bay of 
San Francisco were the scattered missions of 
Spanish Franciscans, who were the first to carry 
European civilization to California. Near the 
Pacific Coast were vast stretches of rich agricul- 
tural lands inviting cultivation. In Oregon the 
coast natives were rapidly disappearing; while in 
California the Indians supplied labor under the 
economic system controlled by the Mexicans. Such 
was the population and prospects of the habitable 
region along the western edge of this continent 
which has since become part of the United States. 

Undoubtedly it would be a pleasure to make the 
overland trip on horseback, if all the travelers of 
a season would stick together so as to afiford each 
other mutual protection from the plains' Indians. 
Money, after the purchase of horses and equip- 
ment, was of little use, though of relatively high 
value. Food could be secured by the use of the 
rifle, water was free and plentiful, even on the des- 
ert, while the stars made an excellent covering be- 
neath which to sleep soundly. Thus were the phy- 
sical wants of man easily satisfied; — the really 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

necessary qualities for such a journey were a mind 
strongly set upon going and perfect ''trust in the 
God of heaven." Both of these spiritual qualities 
were the possession of old Joseph Williams in very 
large measure, as the reader will presently learn. 

An eager interest in the western- facing shore be- 
yond the Stoney Mountains, as the great chain of 
the Rockies was at first called, had long been char- 
acteristic of the residents of the Mississippi Valley. 
Before, and during the Revolution, French and 
Spanish merchants of old St. Louis conducted a 
trade with the Missouri River Indians and heard 
from them about the mountain region. Thomas 
Jefferson dreamt of the exploration and the possi- 
ble future acquisition of territory in that direction, 
years before the population of his country had 
reached the Mississippi River, which was the new 
Republic's western boundary. 

In 1803 President Jefferson found the opportu- 
nity to fulfill his dreams. By the purchase of 
Louisiana he accomplished the large expansion of 
the United States; just how large was a matter 
of conjecture, but at the time of little importance. 
General William Clark, leader of the most impor- 
tant of the several expeditions sent by the Presi- 
dent to explore the new territory, was directed to 
proceed up the Missouri, cross the mountains to 
Oregon, and seek a water communication with the 
Pacific. The Lewis and Clark expedition could not 
find any route practicable for such communication, 
nor did the Indians know of any. It was Ramsay 
Crooks, director of the private enterprise sup- 
ported by John Jacob Astor, who discovered in 



8 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

1813 a practicable route of communication across 
the mountains, but it was not a water route. Wash- 
ington Irving, in his book "Astoria," has placed the 
history of that brave attempt to found a base for 
American trade upon the Pacific, among our liter- 
ary and scholarly classics for all time. Whether or 
not the overland Astorians were the actual discov- 
erers of the famed South Pass, through the conti- 
nental divide, is an academic question. Their im- 
portant contribution to knowledge of the far west 
was the fact that the route they followed presented 
no obstruction to wagon travel and was the short- 
est as well.* When regular communication over- 
land became an accomplished fact, wagons drawn 
by horses or oxen were the means of travel. The 
route used by the emigrant was almost the same as 
that of the Astorians, which is now approximately 
paralleled by the Union Pacific-Oregon Short Line 
Railway systems. It was with one of the earliest 
of the wagon parties that our friend Joseph Wil- 
liams traveled through mountains, which a com- 
panion described as so high and rugged that "no 
person could ever believe that wagons ever passed 
these huge eminences of nature, did he not witness 
it with his own eyes."t 

The fur traders developed the highway and 
made safe the passage for the missionaries and 
occasional adventure-seeking persons who crossed 
the Rocky Mountains in the decade before 1840. 
The people of St. Louis, where General Clark and 



*Brackenridge, H. iM. Views of Louisiana, (Pittsburg, 1814), 
p. 298. 

tBidwell, John. Trip to California 1841, (n. p. n. d.) p. 9. 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

Ramsay Crooks lived, maintained a lively interest 
in the Pacific Coast and its development from the 
time of the early explorations through all the 
period of the mountain fur trade. They saw in the 
Overland highway that led from their door-steps 
a route by which the trade and wealth of India, 
China and all the storied Orient might some day 
be brought to their city. Reliable information 
about Oregon was, therefore, of importance to the 
Missourians, and the manner in which they ob- 
tained it will be evident to the reader of this narra- 
tive. 

Those who consider the cost and difficulty of 
modern transportation may smile at the marvelous 
unconcern of these people regarding the distance 
or the means of communication. But the smile will 
quickly fade when we realize that Joseph Williams 
in his sixty-fourth year started out alone to cross 
the prairies with not much else than his faith in 
God. vStrange! yet he fulfilled the prediction of a 
missionary of just five years before that "the time 
may not be far distant, when trips will be made 
across the continent, as they have been made to 
Niagara Falls, to see nature's wonders."* 

A word must be said about the "Oregon terri- 
tory," to which our elderly friend journeyed. In 
1 84 1 it was not a territory of the United States in 
the legal sense of the term. Rather it was a geo- 
graphical expression covering a vast extent of 
country west of the Rocky Mountains, north from 
the California border to the Russian possessions in 

*Parker, Rev. Samuel. Journal of an Exploring Tour beyond 
the Eocky Mountains, (Ithaca, 1838), p. 73. 



10 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

Alaska, — a region now embraced in the political 
subdivisions of Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and 
parts of Wyoming, Montana and British Colum- 
bia. Its discovery, even now, after the patient re- 
searches of many historical scholars, is largely a 
matter of conjecture. Its full exploration was the 
work of private individuals, the fur traders of 
many nationalities who exploited its natural re- 
sources before civilized governments laid any 
claim to sovereignty over the rich and varied re- 
gion. 

Under the firm and far-seeing guidance of John 
Quincy Adams, when that gentleman was Secre- 
tary of State, Spain and Russia were eliminated 
as claimants to the Oregon territory, and the issue 
of political sovereignty squarely joined with Great 
Britain, whose real interests in that part of the 
world were nearly equal to those of the United 
States. As it was found impossible to agree upon 
a compromise whereby the territory could be 
equally divided, a convention permitting the joint 
occupancy and commercial use of the whole, by the 
nationals of both countries was entered into in 
1818. This allowed the fur traders to carry on 
their business pending a time when agricultural 
development, requiring the definition of real prop- 
erty rights, should compel the settlement of the 
questions of sovereignty and boundary west of the 
Rocky Mountains. 

Under the joint occupancy convention between 
1 818 and 1846 the Hudson's Bay Company, one of 
the old British companies chartered for the pur- 
pose of exploiting the wealth of distant lands, be- 



INTRODUCTION. 11 

came so firmly established in Oregon that Ameri- 
can traders were never able to offer successful 
rivalry. The company did an extensive business in 
all the region which is now the Dominion of Can- 
ada; and, by using the navigable Columbia River, 
maintained as regular communication with Mon- 
treal and their posts on Hudson's Bay as they did 
with London by the sea. At their principal Ore- 
gon post, Fort Vancouver, a hundred miles from 
the mo^th of the Columbia, Dr. John McLoughlin, 
chief factor for the country west of the Rockies, 
entertained occasional American traders who came 
on horseback from St. Louis, but he never per- 
mitted them to gain a foothold in the Oregon terri- 
tory. Here also he supplied American mission- 
aries, who came to Christianize the Indians, with 
whatever was necessary for founding missions. 

The mission stations of the great desert hinter- 
land, east of the Cascade Mountains, were sup- 
ported by the American Board of Commissioners 
for Foreign Missions. The much larger enterprise 
of the Missionary Board of the Methodist Epis- 
copal Church was located in the rich agricultural 
lands to the west of these mountains. This latter 
mission, organized in 1834 by the Rev. Jason Lee, 
and considerably reinforced from time tu time, is the 
object of many comments by our traveler who had 
himself been an itinerant preacher of the Church. 
It is not known whether or not these observations 
of Joseph Williams came to the notice of the Mis- 
sion Board, which in 1844 recalled Jason Lee as 
superintendent; but under the Rev. George Gary 
who superseded him in 1844 **all that was secular, 



12 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

and not essential to the prosecution of the mission, 
was promptly divorced from the spiritual," as the 
historian of the missions of the Methodist Episco- 
pal Church has said.* Williams visited this mis- 
sion at an important crisis in its development, 
namely, when it was changing from an Indian 
mission to one adapted to the spiritual leadership 
of a mixed international settlement, which shortly 
became wholly American in character. Therefore 
his views relative to the activities of his spiritual 
brethren should be of serious interest to those re- 
cent historians of the mission who have found very 
little first hand information covering this period. 

Father Pierre Jean de Smet, S. J., one of the 
party which crossed the plains in 1841, was at the 
threshold of a long life of devoted service to the 
Rocky Mountain Indians which has made his name 
notable among missionaries. From his letters we 
gain a description of Joseph Williams, which 
throws a strong light upon the zeal that drove our 
traveler into the furthermost part of America. 
*'His zeal frequently induced him to dispute with 
us," writes the Jesuit. "It was not difficult to show 
him that his ideas, with the exception of one, were 
vague and fluctuating. He acknowledged it him- 
self; but after having wandered from point to 
point, he always returned to his favorite tenet, 
which, according to him, was the fundamental 
principle of all true belief: 'that the love of God is 
the first of duties, and to inculcate it we must be 
tolerant.' This was his strongest point of support, 

*Strickland, Rev, W. P. History of the Missions of the 
Methodist Episcopal Church, (Cincinnati, 1850), p. 14i5. 



INTRODUCTION. 13 

the foundation of all his reasoning, and the stimu- 
lus of his zeal."* This zeal, which compelled the 
author of this narrative to preach as well as travel, 
is precisely the characteristic which lifts his per- 
sonality from the commonplace and colors with in- 
teresting and vivid light all that he sees and tells us 
of the country and its inhabitants. However, this 
is not the only merit of his pamphlet. 

Joseph Williams entered upon this long journey 
at the very outset of the great emigrant movement, 
which peopled California and Oregon with agricul- 
tural settlers from the Mississippi Valley. Later 
the discovery of gold drew a horde of the pictur- 
esque characters of Bret Harte into the far west; 
but the pioneers were of a different quality. 

In 1 84 1 the first band of emigrants set out from 
the Missouri border for California and Oregon. It 
was a small emigration, which has been overshad- 
owed in written history by the much larger party 
of two years later (1843). This latter emigration 
was the first to enlarge the trail from Fort Hall to 
the Columbia River into a wagon road, and it has 
often been considered as the opening of the emi- 
grant movement. In reality, however, it was but 
the full flowering of that spirit which the pioneers 
of 1841 first translated into action, — the desire to 
plant a colony of American farmers on the Pacific 
Coast. 

The pioneers were the men who sought, not ad- 
venture, but homes across the mountains; the men 

*De Smet, p. 1 — Letters and Sketches: with a narrative of a 
year's residence among- the Indian tribes of the Rocky Mount- 
ains, (Philadelphia, 1843), p. 97. 



14 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

who traveled with wife and children, household 
goods and household gods in the white-topped 
wagons. These men were essaying the great ad- 
venture of treading out the long overland high- 
way. These were the men and women who were 
to found the American commonwealths on the 
Pacific, and the first of them were the companions 
of Joseph Williams. 

The intense beauty of the country through which 
they traveled attracted these pioneers as strongly 
as it has their children of the present generation. 
They wrote of their emotions in the same exalted 
phrases. There was more than one high divide to 
be traversed, while occasionally great bluffs which 
shut in the valleys must be crossed. "But the pleas- 
ing view we had from their top, just as the sun was 
going to sleep behind the western mountains, paid 
us for all our trouble. A most beautiful landscape 
presented itself to view, the rugged summits of 
almost every shape were fantastically pictured 
upon the sky, bounding the western horizon, a 
beautiful lake was seen to the south, whose surface 
was fancifully mottled with numerous islands, 
while the river meandered proudly through the val- 
ley among willows and scattering cotton-woods, 
till it disappeared among the hills in the shades of 
evening."* These words which describe a tribu- 
tary of the Great Salt Lake, the Bear River valley, 
show that the beauty of the western mountains and 
deserts was as strong an attraction to the restless 
pioneers, as the much talked of wonders of nature 

*Bidwell, J. Op. cit. p. &. 



INTRODUCTION. 15 

which were to be seen along the route. Most of the 
wonders are still to be found described in the rail- 
way guide book, but usually the limited passes at 
night, or they lie too far from the line to be seen to 
advantage. 

There is but a single copy of John Bidwell's 
record entitled, "Trip to California, 1841," known 
at this time. It is part of the famous Bancroft col- 
lection in the Library of the University of Cali- 
fornia. Bidwell became a well-known person in 
the state he helped to found, and wrote in later 
years several engaging reminiscences of pioneer 
days which appeared in the Century Magazine for 
1890-1891 (Vol. XIX, N. S.). Father De Smet, the 
only other traveler with the emigration of 1841, 
whose impressions are known to scholars, pub- 
lished a volume of "Letters and Sketches" (Phila- 
delphia, 1843). Oddly enough, these three writers, 
— De Smet, Bidwell, and Williams, separated be- 
fore they had traversed two-thirds of the journey, 
to pursue their routes toward different goals. De 
Smet turned north at Fort Hall to join the Flat- 
head Indians on the upper waters of the Columbia ; 
Bidwell left the party on Bear River to traverse 
the deserts west of Salt Lake and find his way 
across the Sierra Nevada to the open Sacramento 
valley; while Williams, with about twenty-five 
others, made his way over the Snake River desert 
and Blue Mountains to the Oregon settlements 
near the mouth of the Willamette River. Thus 
our record of this most important emigration is 
complete. 

Joseph Williams' narrative of his trip to Ore- 



16 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

gon was privately printed in Cincinnati in 1843 — 
that is a year before the cry of "54° 40' or fight," 
became a poHtical catchword, and the movement 
for the expansion of the United States, which was 
directed by James K. Polk when he became presi- 
dent, had taken shape. In fact it appeared just at 
the time when discussion of the long slumbering 
question of sovereignty over Oregon was renewed 
between the United States and Great Britain. From 
its extreme rarity it is just to say that the book is 
now published for the first time. Only two copies 
of the book are known today : — one is in the private 
collection of Mr. Henry R. Wagner of Berkeley, 
California, while the other is in the Library of the 
New York Historical Society, to which the writer 
of this preface is indebted for permission to make 
a photostat copy. 

The book is important, not only because it 
is practically unknown even to collectors, but be- 
cause of the light it throws upon some mooted 
points of historical interest, which are not purely 
academic. Writers of Oregon history have sought 
light upon the degree of difficulty experienced by 
those earliest pioneers who enlarged the overland 
pack-horse trail into the long wagon road of the 
emigrants; here is one who assisted in that task 
and who tells us just how much their travel was de- 
layed thereby. The question of the obstacles thrown 
in the way of emigrants from the States by the 
agents of the great English fur monopoly, the 
Hudson's Bay Company, in this, the opening years 
of the movement, is another of those mooted points, 
upon which this narrator throws a clear light. In 



INTRODUCTION. 17 

this connection, however, it is necessary to say that 
his opinion of the company's chief factor, Dr. 
John McLoughlin, is not generally shared by others 
who knew him at the time. Of the various mis- 
sions, especially the Methodist, their personnel and 
their work in behalf of the Indians, our elderly 
friend has much to say. It must be remembered 
that until the coming of the great migration of 
1843, these missionaries were the principal repre- 
sentatives of American citizenship in the Oregon 
Territory. To the usually high character of that 
citizenship, in the relations of individuals one to 
another in this land beyond the territorial jurisdic- 
tion of their government, Joseph Williams gives 
eloquent testimony, for he was sensitive to all that 
related to the spiritual side of life. Moreover, he 
points out the diversity of interest among the four 
classes of whites who then inhabited the far North- 
west, and who gave to its society that "happy" 
tone, which still makes Oregon so desirable a place 
wherein to live. 

Willia^ms did not overlook some of the distinct- 
ive features of primitive society among the na- 
tives, though his remarks are somewhat colored by 
his sense of the "depravity of the heathen." Espe- 
cially does he praise the wealth and progress of 
those Indians who inhabited the great interior 
basin of the Columbia, which he visited in the 
autumn and again in the spring season. He saw 
its possibilities for future development by men of 
'his own kind; — "we traveled through rich plains, 
and the mountains lay on our right hand, covered 
with pine trees. All through this country good 



18 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

mill sites abound." One of these spots, the great 
plain on the east of Salt Lake, which Williams 
thought well adapted for settlement was selected 
only three years after by the Mormons, when they 
were compelled to leave Missouri and Illinois to 
seek a new and lonely home across the distant 
mountains. Surely, this man, whose attention was 
so earnestly fixed upon the dominant interests of 
life — the propagation of the faith and the cultiva- 
tion of the soil, may be called the Prophet of the 
Inland Empire. He possessed also a certain jour- 
nalistic instinct, as appears from the number of 
rather sordid happenings, which he recounts in 
great detail. 

Sportsmen and all lovers of nature's beauty who 
have traveled the high passes of the Rocky Mount- 
ains in the present state of Colorado may find an 
interest in the account of how the old preacher, 
with three or four companions, negotiated these 
rough and dangerous mountain trails. Many diffi- 
culties he surmounted and not a few were such as 
would hinder hardier men; yet he complains very 
little of his discomforts, and is more discouraged 
by the "wickedness" of his companions than all the 
hardship to which he was subjected. Those were 
days of good hunting — bear and bufifalo, antelope 
and elk. 

Through turning from the main Oregon route 
by which he had traveled west, our friend on his 
return journey saw nearly all the posts or forts of 
the fur traders in this wide mountain district. 
Most interesting of all is his visit to the Indian 
Pueblo of Taos, where the hunters often wintered. 



INTRODUCTION. 19 

The Mexicans never succeeded in greatly altering 
its people's way of living, and it remains today a 
quaint and lovely mecca of a society of artists, who 
seek there that earthy inspiration which is so nearly 
the font of artistic life. Joseph Williams describes 
its life in considerable and sympathetic detail, 
especially in such things as touched the productiv- 
ity of the soil and the means of its cultivation. 

It will not surprise the reader to know that once 
back in St. Louis our friend was hospitably enter- 
tained by William Sublette, the most important 
partner of the old Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 
whose business and social relations reached west- 
ward to Oregon and eastward to England. Here, 
too, he met Col. Thomas Hart Benton, Missouri's 
foremost Senator, who represented western inter- 
ests in the federal government during thirty years. 
It was well that they met, for the one had informa- 
tion of value to impart, while the other took a lead- 
ing part in the political and international question 
which soon developed over the status of the Oregon 
territory. 

Nor will the reader be surprised to learn that 
our hardy friend, now sixty-six years of age, left 
the party with which he returned across the plains, 
to conclude his journey as it had begun — alone, 
with the God in whom he had put his trust. It 
would be difficult for one to bear stronger witness 
to his faith, or the power of the Lord. 

James C. Bell, Jr. 



NARRATIVE 



OF A TOUR 



FROM THE STATE OF INDIANA 



OREGON TERRITORY 



IN THE YEARS 1841-2 



BY JOSEPH AYILLIAMS 



CIN C IN N ATI : 

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR 

J. B. Wilson, Printer 
1843 



PREFACE. 



At the earnest request of my friends, I have 
consented to publish an account of my journey, 
from my residence in the state of Indiana, to the 
Oregon Territory. The information contained in 
my Narrative may be of great interest to those 
who may contemplate emigrating to that region, 
or such as may wish to explore the vast west to the 
Pacific Ocean. 

I have given my own views of the country be- 
yond the Rocky Mountains; and, although they 
may not agree in every particular with the opinions 
set forth by other travelers, yet I have tried to fol- 
low the best convictions of my own mind, produced 
by personal observation, and the best information 
I could obtain from the inhabitants on the ground. 
As to the correctness of my opinions, I leave that 
for others to judge. It will be easily perceived 
that I am not practiced in the art of book-making; 
but as I have stated facts, in my own plain way, 
without any attempt to embellish my style, I hope 
the reader will be satisfied. It is probable that 
errors will be discovered in the orthography of 
proper names; having no standard authorities at 
hand, by which to correct my spelling of them. In 
most cases, I have given those names according to 

23 



24 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

the usual pronunciation of them by the inhabitants 
of that region. 

I am a native of Cumberland county, Pennsyl- 
vania ; was raised in Virginia ; am now in my sixty- 
sixth year; and that I should be conducted in 
safety, and be sustained through all dangers and 
fatigues of so long a journey, at my advanced age, 
is matter of unfeigned gratitude to that God who 
"preserveth man and beast." 

Joseph Williams. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY 



April 26th, 1841. This morning" I started from 
my residence, near Napoleon, Ripley county, Indi- 
ana, for the Oregon Territory, on the Columbia 
River, west of the Rocky Mountains ; though many 
of my friends tried to dissuade me from going, tell- 
ing me of the many dangers and difficulties I should 
have to go through, exposed to hostile Indians and 
the wild beasts, and also on account of my advanced 
age, being at this time in my 64th year. But my 
mind leads me strongly to go; I want to preach to 
the people there, and also to the Indians, as well as 
to see the country. I try to put my trust in the God 
of heaven, who rules the earth, and seas, and mount- 
ains, and the savage tribes, and all the wild beasts 
of the forest, and the storms, and all the poisonous 
vapors of the earth and air ; who preserves all who 
put their trust in him. My soul seems wholly re- 
signed to his will in all things, whether to live or 
die, to prosper or suffer. All is right that the Lord 
doeth; why then should we fear? So I bade my 
children and friends farewell, not knowing that I 
should ever see them again in this world. Lord, 
keep us near thee! 

That night I reached the neighborhood of St. 

25 



26 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

Omer, on the Flat Rock Creek. The next night I 
staid at brother Rector's; and the next day, soon 
after I started, the rain began to fall in torrents — 
the coldness of the wind and rain rendered me very 
uncomfortable. This day I passed through Indian- 
apolis, and that night staid at Bridgeport. Next 
morning I started very early, the cold west wind 
blowing in my face, and at night reached brother 
Messer's, in Putnam county. Next day attended 
to some temporal business, and rested my horse. 
On Sunday, went to hear brother Belotte preach, at 
the brick meeting-house; and in the afternoon, 
tried to preach myself from Ephesians v, 14: 
"Awake, thou that sleepest." Staid that night at 
brother Clearwater's, and enjoyed myself very 
well. Next day traveled twenty-eight miles, and 
staid at brother Daniel Dickenson's, a Methodist 
preacher. That same day, had a short controversy 
with a Campbellite preacher on baptism. Next 
day, passed through Terrehaute, staid at a class- 
leader's, having traveled thirty-three miles that 
day. Next day, passed several small towns. 
Preached at Woodbury that night, on the waters 
of Embarrass River, in Illinois. Staid with Mr. 
Needham, where I slept comfortably, and rose 
happy in the morning. This dear people want re- 
ligion ; O that the Tord would breathe on them his 
Spirit's influence, and make them Christians ! Next 
day rode thirty-three miles, and staid at Mr. Guy's. 
He seems much of a gentleman, and his wife a 
kind-hearted Methodist. Next morning, started out 
in the rain, and rode to Jacob Tinker's, where I 
dined and fed my horse, and felt very comfortably. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 27 

Started on, and passed through VandaHa, and met 
a very solemn procession, going to bury one of their 
respectable citizens. That night staid at brother 
Wollard's, and enjoyed myself very well. He is a 
Methodist traveling preacher. Next day rode to 
brother Miles', and the day following went to hear 
brother Wollard preach, and exhorted after him. 
We had a very good class meeting. There was 
some difficulty in the Church to settle, which was 
soon done. That night I tried to preach at brother 
Gorman's, and met some old acquaintances from 
Indiana. Next day traveled thirty miles, staid at 
brother Hadley's, in the American Bottom; en- 
joyed myself very well. Next day crossed the 
Mississippi River at St. Louis, in company with 
brother Joseph Oglesby. 

Here I learned that the company which I ex- 
pected to join was broken up. I then went on to 
try to overtake the company that had previously 
started from Independence, in Missouri; rode 
twenty-three miles, and that night staid at Alex- 
ander Ove's, near Baldwin. After I laid down, 
and before I got to sleep, I was called up to go and 
pray for a woman that was dying; but when I got 
there, her husband was not willing that I should 
pray with her. I then returned back to my bed. 
Here they treated me very kindly. Next day 
reached Union, where I staid with Dr. Chids; 
preached that night from Ephesians iv, 5: "One 
Lord, one faith, one baptism." I had some liberty 
in preaching, and the people paid good attention, 
and behaved well. Next day I traveled over high, 
poor, barren and stony hills, and staid at Mr. 



28 TOUB TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

M'Afee's; endeavored to get a preaching place, 
but the people seemed indifferent about it, so I gave 
it up. These looked like poor, distressed people. 
Next morning crossed Gasconade River, and after- 
wards the Osage River. Here I was mortified to 
find that I had expended all my money, and had to 
sell a pair of saddle-bags for two dollars. Staid 
that night with Esquire Price. Still traveling over 
poor hills, I passed next day through Jefferson 
City. Here I once more saw the Missouri River, 
preached that night at brother Michael Barger's, 
to a small congregation, mostly Baptists. They in- 
vited me to come back, which I promised to do. 
Next day had a tedious travel over the wide and 
rich prairies, and in the evening passed through 
Georgetown, and missed my way; but reached the 
house of a fine old man and woman, who were not 
religious, but treated me very kindly, and charged 
me to call on them as I returned. Next day trav- 
eled through the rich prairies, and reached War- 
rensburg, in Johnson county. I went to brother 
Brown's, and asked him if he would let a Methodist 
preacher preach there that night. He told me there 
was an appointment made there already for the 
circuit preacher, who asked me to preach in his 
place. I did so ; we had a comfortable and sociable 
time. Next day I rode to brother M'Kine's, a 
Methodist preacher, where I received information 
that the company at Independence, which was 
going to the Mountains, had already started ten 
days before. I then went on to Independence the 
next day, and preached there that night, from 
Ephesians iv, 5: "One Lord, one faith, one bap- 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 29 

tism," which caused some of the people to stare at 
me. Here brother Ford and brother Pertee ear- 
nestly remonstrated against my proceeding any 
farther, telling me that I never would be able to 
encounter the difficulties. 

I rode over, the next morning, to Westport, and 
finding the company were all gone, and no possi- 
bility of overtaking them, with much pain of mind 
I gave up going any farther, and knew not what to 
do. I then rode across to the Shawnee mission, 
three miles from Westport, across the Missouri 
line, and there I met brother Greene, presiding 
elder, who told me the company, about four days 
previous, was eighty miles ahead of me, on the 
Caw River. I said within myself, surely the Lord 
is opening my way to go on. I began to get ready 
to go on, but could not get half prepared. Bought 
some powder and lead, and some provision and a 
gun, but was disappointed in getting my gun. My 
feelings were much harrowed up with the brethren 
trying to discourage me, and keep me from going 
to the Mountains. One. of the preachers told me it 
was almost presumptuous for so old a man as I to 
attempt such a hazardous journey, and added, that 
he had awful feelings for me through the last 
night; and he said, so had some of the rest. Mr. 
Greene said there was a possibility of my return- 
ing, but not a probability. 

I started out on Saturday, with brother Johnson, 
a missionary, and two Indian chiefs of the Caw 
tribe. We reached, that night, Wakloosa Creek, 
and camped under the trees. Brother Johnson 
cooked supper, and we had cakes and coffee. We 



30 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

laid down to sleep ; the thunder and lightning could 
be heard and seen, and the wind began to blow. I 
was somewhat alarmed, for fear of the trees fall- 
ing on us. The rain soon began, and the wind 
ceased. Then I soon fell asleep, and rested well 
and comfortably. I arose next morning happy; 
bless the Lord, O my soul; praise him who takes 
care of us in the desert ! 

This day we traveled through extensive rolling 
prairies, with some few skirts of timber. We rode 
forty-five miles that day, and reached brother 
Johnson's mission. Brother and sister Johnson 
furnished me with provision, and every thing that 
I needed, and offered to do any thing that they 
could for me. Brother Johnson has died since, 
and I doubt not, has gone to heaven to reap his re- 
ward. I shall never forget their kindness to me. 
Next morning I started, in company with Mr. 
Brensill. When we came to the Caw River, the 
Indians said we could cross it. We entered in, and 
the water ran over our horses' backs, and I got my 
provisions wet. We inquired of the Indians, and 
they told us the company was ahead about four 
days' journey, and they gave me directions and 
how to find their trail. I rode about seven miles. 
I was then alone, about 9 o'clock; and being about 
to pass through the territory occupied by the 
Pawnee tribe, I thought of what they told me about 
being robbed or killed, and put my whip to my 
horse. Passing through a small thicket of woods, 
I saw a pishamore lying near the trail, and lit down 
to get it, when I saw that there was an Indian's 
pack, that I concluded was laid there to decoy me. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 31 

I then sprang upon my horse, gave him the whip, 
and rode till dark. This day traveled about forty 
miles, and came to a willow thicket ; tied my horse 
with a long rope, laid down, and slept till next 
morning, nothing breaking the silence of the night 
but a few bull-frogs. I arose and returned to the 
road, and saw some fresh horse tracks that had 
been made during the night, I supposed by the Indi- 
ans, who had been following me. The Caws (or 
Kauzas) told me that the Pawnees were a bad na- 
tion, and that they had a battle with them; that 
they had their women and children hid in a thicket, 
whom they (the Pawnees) slaughtered in a bar- 
barous manner. I can hardly describe my feel- 
ings as I was traveling alone, up Caw (or Kauzas) 
River. Pursuing my journey that day, I tried to 
give myself up to the Lord. I could scarcely fol- 
low the wagon tracks, the ground was so hard in 
the prairie. I had almost concluded, at last, to turn 
back, and got down on my knees, and asked the 
Lord whether I should do so or not. These words 
came to my mind: 'The Lord shall be with thee, 
and no hand shall harm thee." I then renewed my 
resolution to go on in the name of the Lord, believ- 
ing that all would be well, and that I should, in the 
end, return safely home. I went cheerfully for 
some time; but was occasionally perplexed with 
doubts. About an hour before sunset, I got down 
off my horse, and prayed again. God renewed the 
promise, and I got up and started on, refreshed in 
spirit, and with renewed courage, thinking all 
would be well; and instead of sleeping in the prai- 
rie, I got to an encampment where there was fire. 



32 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

and plenty of wood, and good water, and I praised 
God with all my heart. I roasted my meat, sweet- 
ened some water, and, with my biscuits, made a 
hearty supper; laid down by my fire, and slept 
well and comfortably till morning. A little dog 
that the company had left, kept around the camp, 
barking and howling. 

Next morning I arose quite happy in my soul, 
and said, "My God hath preserved me hitherto, and 
now God has answered my prayer." I then ate my 
breakfast and started, happy in my soul. I crossed 
the Vermillion Creek, and arose on the rolling prai- 
rie. I shouted some hours over these beautiful 
plains. No fear nor trouble came near me, for God 
had given me so many glorious promises, that I 
could not doubt or fear for a moment. Not an 
Indian appeared that day. About 4 o'clock in the 
afternoon, I saw the company about four miles 
ahead, but soon lost sight of them again ; and com- 
ing to the place where the company had stopped to 
eat dinner, I alighted, and let my horse feed awhile. 
At this place, as the company afterwards told me, 
about two hundred Indians had been seen only an 
hour before. They had sometimes hung on the rear 
of the company, and had made some show of at- 
tacking those who lingered behind the main body. 
Awhile before, they had robbed four men of all 
they had, stripped them naked, and left them in the 
open prairies to perish before they could get to the 
white settlements. The company said it was ninety- 
nine chances to one that I escaped the hands of the 
Indians, for they had been seen all along where I 
had come. Surely a wise God controlled the heath- 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 33 

ens, and protected me ; for as I came along the day 
before, I found a piece of a buffalo robe in the 
trail, which I thought some of the company had 
dropped, but after I had put it on my saddle, I 
saw on the other side of the road a skin bag, full 
of something, which I then knew was an Indian 
bag. I then rode on as fast as I could till evening, 
when I took up my lodging. O how good the Lord 
is; let all the world with me praise him. Praise 
him, O my soul; for I trusted in him, and 
he has preserved me. How good it is to con- 
verse with the Lord. The company seemed 
glad that I had made my escape. The com- 
pany consisted of about fifty. The greater part 
were bound for California; a few only for Ore- 
gon. There was about twenty wagons belong- 
ing to the expedition, drawn by oxen. One of the 
company was a Catholic priest, a Mr. de Smidt, 
who was extremely kind to me, and invited me to 
come and eat supper with him that night, and next 
morning brought me some venison. He appeared 
to be a very fine man. I was invited to sing by a 
woman, and then to pray. I did so. 

May 27th. We marched on through plains. 
28th. Saw two antelopes, the first I ever saw of 
those animals. We traveled three hundred miles 
up the Caw River from Westport, on the west line 
of the Missouri, all the way through prairies, which 
seem almost to have no end. On Sunday, 30th, I 
had a thought of trying to preach to the company. 
There were some as wicked people among them as 
I ever saw in all my life. There was some reluc- 
tance shown by the captain of the company; others 
wanted me to preach to them. Part of this Sabbath 
day was a happy time to me. My soul was drawn 



34 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

out to God, for he was with me, though in the 
midst of an ignorant and hard-hearted people. The 
men killed several antelopes, and saw some elks. 
On Monday, the 31st, we left the Blue (or Blue 
Earth) River, a fork of Caw River, and traveled 
over to the Platte River. We passed the Pawnee 
towns the next day, about six miles to the north of 
us. We then turned more to the southwest, and 
camped on Platte River that night. We had two 
Methodists in company with us. Col. Bartleson 
had been a Methodist, but is now a backslider. 
Our leader, Fitzpatrick, is a wicked, worldly man, 
and is much opposed to missionaries going among 
the Indians. He has some intelligence, but is deist- 
ical in his principles. At 2 o'clock, commenced a 
most tremendous bad storm, with wind, which blew 
down most of the tents, accompanied with rain and 
lig-htning and thunder almost all night. I slept but 
little, the ground being all covered with water. 
That night, dreadful oaths were heard all over the 
camp ground. O the wickedness of the wicked. 

On this night I was called upon to marry a cou- 
ple of young people belonging to our company, 
without law or license, for we were a long way 
from the United States. Perhaps this was the first 
marriage in all these plains, among white people. 

Next morning we continued up the Platte River. 
This river is said to be about sixteen hundred miles 
long, and is here about one-fourth of a mile wide, 
and very muddy. The Indians call it Elk River. 
It empties into the Missouri, a few miles below 
Council Blufif. The Caw River is said to be 
about seven hundred miles long. It empties 
into the Missouri River, at the west line of the 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 35 

state of Missouri. On Thursday, we traveled 
through the most level plains I ever saw in my life. 
Here is such a scenery of beauty as is seldom wit- 
nessed. The Platte plains are lower than the 
banks. There are bluffs all along here, for four or 
five miles. The next day there came on a tre- 
mendous storm of rain, wind, and thunder, which 
lasted about an hour and a half. We traveled up 
the river, and encamped all night where wood was 
very scarce, and hard to be got, and we made our 
fires of some willow bushes. On Friday evening 
the company had a terrible alarm. One of our 
hunters, who was in the rear, was robbed of all he 
had by the Indians. They struck him with their 
ram-rods, and he ran from them. Soon a war 
party of the Sioux Indians appeared in view. We 
soon collected together in order of battle, to be 
ready in case of an attack. The Indians stood 
awhile and looked at us, and probably thinking 
that "the better part of valor is discretion," they 
soon showed signs of peace. Captain Fitzpatrick 
then went to them, and talked with them, for he 
was acquainted with them. They then gave back 
all that they had taken from the young man, and 
our men gave them some tobacco, and they smoked 
the pipe of peace. 

The next morning we continued up this river, 
along smooth banks, without any timber. That 
afternoon we had a very severe hail storm, accom- 
panied with thunder; one Indian was knocked 
down with a hail stone, about as large as a goose 
egg. We soon discovered a water spout, which 
came down into the river. When it struck the river 



36- TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

it made a great foam^ and then passed off in a 
dreadful tornado. The next day we saw six flat- 
bottomed boats coming down, loaded with buffalo 
robes and skins. The poor fellows in the boats 
looked very dirty and ragged. We now began to 
see plenty of buffalo signs; all the way previous, 
game had been scarce. Here we had not very good 
water to drink, having to use the muddy water of 
the Platte River. On Sunday, we staid where we 
had tolerably good water. Companies of Indians 
still came into our camp to trade with us. 

The bluffs here are getting larger and higher 
and wider from the river. These plains are cov- 
ered all over with buffalo bones and skulls. I long 
to get out of these plains to where we can get plenty 
of good water and wood. I am still weary of 
hearing so much swearing by the wicked white 
men. On Monday night, we had another hard 
storm of rain, hail, and thunder. These beautiful 
bluffs look, in some places, like magnificent build- 
ings. 

June ist. We had storms all the time. Sunday, 
7th. Our hunters killed an elk, for the first time. 
On Wednesday, they killed three buffaloes. The 
Indians still continued to travel with us. This 
night we were threatened with another thunder 
storm, but it passed off without much rain. Our 
hunters killed some more buffaloes, and we then 
had plenty of meat. It is thought that the Platte 
plains here are several feet below the surface of the 
water. The river banks are very low, but never 
overflow. Some small cedars grow on the top of 
the bluffs. The bluffs get larger and higher as we 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 37 

ascend the river. Monday morning we began to 
make ready to cross the south fork of Platte River. 
This fork is about one-fourth of a mile wide, with 
sandy bottom; some places the wagons nearly 
swam. We got apross with some difficulty, but 
not much danger. There were seven or eight buf- 
faloes seen coming up with our oxen; our hunters 
shot one of them. Some more were seen with the 
other oxen. They seemed to form an attachment 
to each other. Thursday, we traveled up the north 
side of the south fork. Here we saw thousands of 
buffalo, all along the plains. Our hunters shot 
down one bull; they thought it unnecessary to kill 
any more. Here we saw packs of wolves, which 
followed them. This morning there was a great 
alarm given that the Indians had driven off some 
of the oxen, and our men went in pursuit of them, 
and brought them back. One man said he saw an 
Indian, and shot at him, but some did not believe 
him. All this time, I had to stand guard every 
fourth night. The Indians still come to trade with 
us. Here we have nothing to make our fires 
but buffalo manure. This morning a large buf- 
falo bull came near us, when we were march- 
ing along and seemed regardless of the bullets; 
but after fifteen or twenty were shot at him, 
he fell. We started across to the north fork, 
about two miles to the northwest, and then trav- 
eled about twenty miles up the river; staid 
there on Saturday night. Here an awful cir- 
cumstance took place: A young man by the name 
of Shotwell, shot himself accidentally, and died in 
about two hours afterwards. I was called upon, 



38 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

by his comrades, to preach his funeral, which I did. 
The death of this young man caused some serious- 
ness in his comrades for a few days. On Sunday 
evening, we went up the river about eight miles, to 
the mouth of Ash Creek, and staid there one day 
and two nights. We then traveled up through the 
bluffs and bald hills, the weather still cold and 
windy. Nothing grows here but some willow 
bushes on the banks. The plains are poor and 
broken. Many curious shapes and forms may be 
seen among the bluffs. Some abrupt elevations 
look like houses, with steeples to them. One we saw 
sixteen or eighteen miles ahead of us, which re- 
sembled a house with the chimney in the middle of 
it; or like a funnel, with the small end uppermost, 
and covering about two acres of ground. The 
chimney part is about one hundred feet high, and 
about thirty feet square. We passed an old fort 
below the mouth of the Larrimee River ; and cross- 
ing that river, we went up to a new fort that they 
were building, called Fort Johns. Here is a mix- 
ture of people ; some white, some half breeds, some 
French. Here is plenty of talk about their dam- 
nation, but none about their salvation; and I 
thought of the words of David, "Woe is me that I 
sojourn in Mesech, that I dwelt in the tents of 
Kedar." Here we came in sight of the Black 
Hills. We have now buffalo meat in abundance, 
which they cut up in slices, and dry in the sun. I 
never experienced colder weather for the time of 
year, now late in June. The people here appear 
healthier than at any other place in the country. 
The white people have Indian women for their 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 39 

wives. There are two Forts here, about one mile 
apart, and another about one hundred and fifty 
miles south. I tried to preach twice to these peo- 
ple, but with little effect. Some of them said they 
had not heard preaching for twelve years. 

Leaving the Fort, we soon entered the Black 
Hills. Traveling up the Larrimee River, we had 
plenty of good wood and water, and felt ourselves 
much refreshed, thanks be to God. I am now get- 
ting well used to eating buffalo meat. 

July ist. We crossed the north fork with diffi- 
culty, and in the passage had a mule drowned. 
Buffaloes and bears are very plenty, and our hunt- 
ers shot them down all around, so that we had good 
fat meat in abundance. All this country is still 
very poor and the timber small — cotton wood and 
willow. Few Indians to be seen; some mixed 
breeds are with Mr. de Smidt, going on to the 
Columbia River to the Catholic mission. Here 
grow a great many wild shrubs, with wild sage and 
grease-wood, resembling young pine, with which 
the bald hills are covered. It is seldom eaten by any 
kind of animal. Here we have the Black Hills 
upon our left. The third day of the month, we left 
the Platte and went on to the Sweet River, a branch 
of the Platte, which heads up in the mountains. We 
are now supposed to be in north latitude 41°. The 
streams of water are very good. I notice here large 
quantities of something like glauber salts. It looks 
like white frost. This country is thought to be ex- 
tremely healthy. 

July 4th. Came in sight of the Big Horn (or 
Wind River) Mountain. The next day we passed 



40 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

the Red Bluffs, and at night reached the Indepen- 
dence Rock, on Sweet River, at which a company 
celebrated the 4th of July, 1838. Next night (Sun- 
day) I proposed having prayers; several of the 
wicked class came up. Near this, we passed a place 
where the whole river runs through a narrow chan- 
nel, or sluice in the rocks. This night we have the 
sound of the violin, but not much dancing. "Woe 
unto the wicked; for they shall have their reward." 
Our company is mostly composed of Universalists 
and deists. Here is an almost solid rock, like a 
mountain, on the right side of Sweet River. Buf- 
faloes and antelopes are very plenty in this region. 
Driving through dry, rough plains, we try to get 
to the creeks to obtain grazing for our animals. We 
aie now in the neighborhood of the Crow nation of 
Indians, who are peaceable. We have this morn- 
ing again come in sight of the Wind River Moun- 
tain. Its summit is still spotted with snow. 

July ioth. At night we were cold. I could not 
keep warm, although I had a buffalo robe to cover 
me. It is said here, that the ground is sometimes 
frozen in August an inch deep. Today we traveled 
over some high, bald hills ; dined on good fat buf- 
falo, that our hunters had just killed. We went 
over on Sweet River, and dried our meat for the 
remaining part of our journey, where we expected 
not to find any more game. We are still in sight of 
the big Wind Mountain ; for it may be seen at the 
distance of seventy or eighty miles. For hundreds 
of miles we have to pass over barren ground. I 
went out with the hunters to bring in meat to dry, 
and we soon killed a buffalo, which Mr. Jones and 



TOTJB TO OREGON TERRITORY. 41 

myself loaded our animals with, and started back to 
camp, T acting as pilot. We struck too high on the 
creek, and such places for rocks and hills and cliffs 
I never traveled over before. We arrived home 
just after dark. The next day we came in sight of 
the Sweet River Mountain. Its peaks were toler- 
ably well whitened with snow. There are some 
white bears in these mountains, but we have not 
killed any yet. There are also some white wolves, 
about as white as sheep. They are a dull, sleepy 
looking animal, and very surly ; not very mindful of 
any thing, nor much afraid. They are about the 
size of a common wolf. i6th, July. We are en- 
gaged in drying our meat for crossing the moun- 
tains. This morning we had a very great frost, 
and some ice. We are still in sight of the Sweet 
River Mountain. 

Today, we lay by for the arrival of the Snake 
Indians to come and trade for our articles, and a 
man was sent to tell them to come. Today, Col. 
Bartleson gave some of our deists a down-setting, 
which pleased me very well. We moved about three 
miles up the river, to get better grazing ground for 
our animals. This river is very beautiful; clear, 
running water, fine springs all along; no timber, 
soil poor and barren. Sunday, i8th. We lodged 
on Little Sandy Creek, a beautiful stream. 19th. 
We stand on Big Sandy Creek. These two creeks 
run into Green River, a branch of the Colorado 
River. 

We have now just crossed the ridge between the 
Green River and the Missouri. All these mountains 
that we have been traveling through, are spurs of 



42 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

the Rocky Mountains, whose peaks are covered 
with eternal snow. Although the mountains are 
spotted with snow, yet the plains are very hot and 
sultry. Today, we saw some white, grizzly bears, 
and killed some mountain sheep, the horns of which 
are as thick as a man's leg, and about two feet 
long; but they have no wool upon them, and are 
not much larger than our common sheep. Friday, 
23rd. We lay on Green River bottom, where we 
fell in with Mr. Frap, who was on a hunting expe- 
dition. This man, with nine or ten of his company, 
was afterwards killed in a skirmish with the Sioux 
Indians. His company was mostly composed of 
half breeds, French, and Dutch, and all sorts of 
people collected together in the mountains, and 
were a wicked, swearing company of men. Here 
sugar sold for $1.50 per pound; powder and lead 
from $1.50 to $2.50 per pound. While here, a 
wedding took place in our company, between Mr. 
Richard Fillan and a Mrs. Gray, who had left her 
husband in Missouri. They were married by Mr. 
de Smidt, the Catholic priest. Six of our company 
left us and returned to the United States. Leaving 
Mr. Frap's company, we continued our journey 
down Green River. On Sabbath we have nothing 
but swearing, fishing, etc. Here I gave myself up 
to God, determined to serve him better than ever. 
27th. We encamped on Black's fork. We are 
now among the Snake nation and Flat Head In- 
dians. These latter are like other Indians, but 
their heads have been clamped up in a box while 
infants. We traveled about ten miles a day, much 
impeded by the thickets of sage and grease-wood. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 43 

Here we find the little prairie dogs. They are about 
the size of the fox squirrel, and of a brownish 
color. They are in shape like a little dog with short 
tails. Here we also find other small animals, about 
the size of the ground squirrel. They all live, as it 
were, in towns, burrowed in the ground. These 
little animals appear to visit one another, from the 
appearance of their paths from one burrow to an- 
other. Their houses are covered up; and when 
they see travelers, they run to their holes. The sage 
hen is found here also. They are somewhat less 
than the turkey hen, and are supposed to live on the 
sage leaves. They are not very good to eat. 

July 28th. On Ham's fork of Green River. One 
of our wagons broke down today. 30th. We trav- 
eled across the barren hills towards Bear River. 
This was a hot, sultry day; yet we could see snow 
on the Eutaw Mountains, on the head waters of 
the Colorado River. Next night we lay on Black's 
fork. August 1st. At night I tried to preach to 
the deists and swearers. Some of them seemed 
angry, but I thought I cleared my conscience. Next 
day we traveled through hills and bad roads till we 
came to Bear River, which runs into Big Salt Lake. 
Here we rested, and waited for the Snake Indians 
to come and trade with us. The Bear River bot- 
toms are beautiful to look at, but not rich, and have 
no timber. On each side of the river are high, 
naked blufifs, in some places like small mountains; 
and in the valleys, large springs of beautiful cold 
water abound. Farther on, we found tolerably 
good lands, and beautiful small creeks, having good 
mill sites. Some few pines are growing along these 



44 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

bluffs. This day I felt weak from living on dry 
buffalo meat, without bread. Sunday, 8th. We 
rested. The employment is still fishing and himt- 
ing, and such swearing I never heard in my life be- 
fore. God will surely punish these swearers. Still 
we find large beautiful streams coming down from 
the mountains, whose sides are covered with pine 
trees. Fish are plenty in all these streams. A fine 
settlement might be formed along this river. 

We next came to the soda springs. These 
springs seem to boil like a pot of water; but there 
is no heat in them, except one, that is just on the 
bank of the river, which is built in the form of a 
crawfish hole, about three feet high, formed a sedi- 
ment thrown up by the water, which spouts about 
three feet high every quarter of a minute. There 
is an air hole near it that makes a noise like a 
steamboat, but not so loud. This water is something 
similar to the artificial soda water. Some of these 
springs are situated in the bottom of the river, and 
occasion an ebullition on the surface. This water 
is somewhat purgative, and is thought by some to 
possess medical qualities, which may hereafter 
make it a place of great resort by Invalids and 
others. This place looks as if it might once have 
been a great volcano. There is something like lava 
that has been thrown out of a hole, and lies some 
inches thick on the ground. Around it is a fine 
country of rich land, good fresh water, healthy, 
and a very mild climate. Some of the sediment is 
of a red color, and the stones have the appearance 
of pumice. 

Here our hunters killed a pelican, as white as 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 45 

snow, and its legs and feet like those of a goose. 
Its bill is about eighteen inches long, and it has a 
pouch under its jaw that will hold about three 
pints. The pelican is about six feet long, its tail 
short, the flesh coarse, and not very good to eat. 
This day we parted with some of our company. 
They went down the Bear River in order to go to 
California. There was some division and strife 
among us about going ; some who set out for Cali- 
fornia changed their minds to go to the Columbia. 
Those who went to California, (as I afterwards 
learned) were much perplexed about getting 
through, as they had no regular guide; and were 
forced to kill some of their animals, to save them- 
selves from perishing with hunger. They passed 
the Big Salt Lake. At this Lake, abundance of 
salt is made by evaporation in the sun. 

We turned off from the Bear River, and struck 
over on to the waters of Snake River. Next morn- 
ing we started down one of its branches, but found 
that we could not get along with the wagons. We 
therefore turned back again, and staid near where 
we encamped the night before. The next day we 
continued on up, and fell over on Snake River, at 
Fort Hall. Here the Flat Heads met the Catholic 
priest, who, with his little company, left us, and 
turned to the right to go to the Flat Head tribes, 
where he had a mission. I felt sorry when we 
parted with him. After we had got some provi- 
sions, and the men had exchanged their wagons 
for horses, we pursued our journey. Our company 
is now going with Mr. Armington, who is our cap- 
tain. W> passed the Ponock Indians. They seemed 



46 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

to show some dislike to us. Our captain said, if 
they were not for peace, they would not come 
openly to us. Here news came to us that about two 
hundred wSioux had attacked Frap's company, men- 
tioned in a former part of my narrative. We now 
started on down the Snake River. We have now 
beautiful plains to travel through. At Fort Hall, 
we had to give one dollar a pint for flour. Fort 
Hall is a beautiful place, in a handsome part of the 
country. 

August 2 1 St. Went down the Snake River. Here 
are half breeds, and Indians, and French, and Wy- 
hees, all together. We staid at the American Falls, 
on Snake River, where we took breakfast. These 
falls afford beautiful scenery, and are heard to a 
great distance. We traveled over some tremendous 
bad roads; and on the 21st, we passed the Salmon 
Falls on Lewis River. A large company of the 
root diggers live here, in little lodges made of wil- 
low bushes and grass. Here they catch thousands of 
salmon. These, with the roots they dig, constitute 
their food. Their little lodges were lined with fish, 
of which we bought plenty to do us. We now 
fared well on fish, and I have recruited my strength 
of body. Our captain, Armington, is one of the 
most liberal, freehearted men in this country. He 
has shown us a great deal of kindness, though far 
from being a religious man. 28th. We crossed the 
river, which was deep and dangerous, and contin- 
ued down it. The Snake Indians are now with us, 
and want to sell us fish, and trade horses. We have 
tremendous rough roads, and it is very dangerous 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 47 

traveling up and down the rocky hills. We passed 
two hot springs, where we saw some iron ore. 

September ist. We reached Fort Bois. Timber 
grows along the Bois, principally cotton wood. 
There are some flour and Indian meal to be sold 
here ; seven pounds of flour for a dollar — mountain 
price ! Here we rested two days. Our captain is a 
very profane man, which seems to give fresh spring 
to our swearers. The first night we staid at Fort 
Bois, I lay on the bank of the river, where I could 
scarcely sleep for the Indians, who sung all night in 
a very curious manner. This is their practice when 
they are gambling. The poor things were almost 
naked. The salmon also kept a great noise, jump- 
ing and splashing about in the water. We now 
started for Wallawalla, over hills and rough roads. 
We don't see any timber, scarcely, except a few 
pines. We passed some more hot springs today, 
and traveled some very dangerous roads. 8th. 
We came to Gunpowder River, a small stream. The 
next day we staid on a pleasant plain, where beauti- 
ful springs come down from the spurs of the Blue 
Mountains. We staid on the Grand Round, a beau- 
tiful plain, about twenty miles long and ten broad. 
It is well calculated for farming, and well watered. 
Here we pass some beautiful pines, spruce, and 
fir trees. After crossing the mountain, we staid 
at the foot of it, on the margin of a small creek. 
We had some frost this morning. Next day we 
traveled over the hills, and got into the rich prai- 
ries ; camped on the Umatilla River, where we saw 
a variety of fruits, black haws and brown cherries ; 
and trees like the balm of Gilead, with pods and 



48 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

gum on them. The Indians brought some good, 
sweet roots to sell us. We traveled on, and got 
to Dr. Whiteman's and Mr. Gray's, on the Walla- 
walla, where the Presbyterian mission is located. 
These were kind, friendly people. We heard the 
Doctor hold a meeting on Sunday, in a well-be- 
haved congregation of Indians. I tried to preach 
to them myself that day. Here we had all kinds of 
garden vegetables, which they gave to us very 
freely. 

On Wednesday following we left the mission, 
and traveled on down the Wallawalla about 
twenty-five miles, and reached the Fort at the 
mouth thereof, on the Columbia River. We con- 
tinued down the Columbia River on a very danger- 
ous road, on the side of hills, where, if a horse 
should stumble, he would fall two hundred feet 
down into the river. We traveled through large 
white sand banks, and passed the falls, where the 
Indians catch great quantities of fish. We staid 
among these Indians awhile. They seem very re- 
ligious. We prayed together, and gave them some 
bread. They sung and prayed before they ate, and 
then returned thanks afterwards. At this place, 
some of our Methodist missionaries had preached. 
We crossed a small river below the falls, where, 
while we stopped to let our animals graze, we had 
some of our articles stolen by the Indians. We 
passed the "Dalles," or Narrows, where the Colum- 
bia River is contracted to not more than twenty 
yards wide. Around this place the Indians are 
numerous. 

Shortly after this, we arrived at the Methodist 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 40 

mission, where brother Daniel Lee, brother Per- 
kins, brother Brewer, and their famiHes, are sta- 
tioned. They are making some progress among the 
Indians. I was truly glad to see a Methodist house, 
and see the Methodist people once more. They 
were very good to us, and supplied us with pro- 
visions, free of charge. I was often invited to eat 
with them, but not to sleep in the house. I tried to 
preach to them one night, and had a very good 
time. After resting three days, we left them, and 
traveled on with four men and one family. We 
passed two mountains — Mount St. Helena and 
Mount Hood. The tops of these mountains are cov- 
ered with perpetual snow, and may be seen for one 
hundred miles. We lodged on a large creek, in 
company with some Indians. The Indians requested 
me to hold prayers with them, which I did. From 
thence we struck through to the falls of the Willa- 
mette River. On our way, we passed through the 
thickest wood I ever saw in my life, mostly spruce, 
pith pine, and fir trees. In these thickets it is al- 
most like night in mid-day, so dense is the forest of 
large and heavy topped trees. The high hills, logs, 
and mud-holes, made our travel very difficult, and 
even dangerous. There were a woman and three 
children in company with us, while we lay out two 
nights in the rain. I had a bufifalo rug for a tent 
cloth. Here are some of the largest trees I ever 
saw in my life; some of them are supposed to be 
two hundred and fifty feet high. One tree, which 
I measured, was thirty feet in circumference. We 
passed a number of large water-falls, affording 



60 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

great water power for mills. There are also a great 
many fine, cold springs. 

After traveling eight days of a wearisome jour- 
ney, we reached the Methodist mission, at the Falls 
of the Willamette River, where brother Wilson 
and brother Waller are missionaries. Here I lay 
out under the saplings in the woods, and slept but 
little on account of the fleas. Mr. Moore, from 
Missouri, came and staid with me. Some young 
men who were building a ship, came and supplied 
us with provision. On the 9th, we arrived at the 
beautiful plains of Willamette, where we staid 
with Mr. Hubbard, who was married to an Indian 
woman, as are all the white men in this country, 
excepting the missionaries. He used us very well, 
and charged us nothing. Today, I traveled up the 
river among the beautiful plains, and had a view of 
Mt. Jefferson and Mt. M'Laughlin, the tops of 
which are elevated above the clouds, covered with 
snow, and may, I think, be seen one hundred miles ; 
as may also some other mountains in this region. 
I rode to Jason I.ee's station, the first he built 
after going there, and gave him a bundle of papers 
that were sent to him. Here are several mission- 
aries. Next day I rode to brother Judson's mis- 
sionary station, where they have built a grist and 
saw-mill, and are doing a very good business for 
themselves. I remained awhile at brother Judson's 
and brother Ouley's, where I enjoyed myself very 
well, and became acquainted with brother Hole- 
man and brother Hines, and brother Campbell. 
They and their families seemed very friendly. I 
then returned to Lees' old station, and staid at 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 51 

brother Raymond's, who gave me some small pres- 
ents. I went to hear brother Lasley (one of the 
missionaries) preach on Sunday. He preached. a 
cold, formal sermon. In the afternoon, I tried to 
preach to them. We had but a small congregation, 
all dull and flat. I said within myself, "I fear the 
world, and speculation, has too much influence 
over these missionaries." It is in vain for men to 
come to this country to teach the Indians the way 
of salvation, and be so indifferent themselves. I 
said, "O Lord, turn away the captivity of Zion, and 
send faithful laborers into the vineyard, to teach 
the way of salvation to the heathen." These In- 
dians are of the Callapooyan tribe, and the mis- 
sionaries have as yet learned but little of their 
language. They have no regular school here at this 
time, but are making preparations to build a house 
at the upper station, but none here. Nor are there 
any converted Indians here. I believe there have 
been three or four that were members of the Meth- 
odist Episcopal Church, but there are none now; 
and no Indian society at all on the Willamette. 
They say that the Roman Catholics tried to hinder 
their influence in this country. The Catholics have 
a majority of the French and Indians. I was often 
asked by the Indians to go to their camps and hold 
prayer meetings with them. I fell in company with 
brother Frost, one of the missionaries who live at 
the mouth of the Columbia River, among the Che- 
nook Indians. I told him I had a mind to go down 
there with him ; and I started in a canoe down the 
Willamette River, in company with some Chenook 
Indians. We lay out two nights before we reached 



52 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

the Falls. One night it rained upon us. We reached 
the Falls, and staid there one night. Brother Wal- 
ler preached to a few of the Klackamus Indians, 
and brother Frost exhorted and I exhorted through 
an interpreter. These men preached in the "jar- 
gon," (a language or dialect taken from all the 
tribes) but did not altogether understand the lan- 
guage used by the natives. Brother Waller and my- 
self went down to the mouth of the Klackamus 
River to preach to the Indians; but with little 
effect. Here is the place where the Roman Cath- 
olics hold their meetings. That night tried to 
preach to a few whites, but with little effect. I 
did not now sleep in the woods as I did before, 
being in company with brother Frost. 

Next day we started down to Fort Vancouver, 
which we reached in two days. Here I met with 
Mr. Littlejohn, and concluded to go with him to 
Qualitine Plains, as he was about moving, and was 
to start that night, or the next morning. So I 
brought up my baggage to the house where Little- 
john was staying, and with his consent put them 
in there, without asking leave of Mr. M'Laughlin, 
the proprietor. Immediately after, Mr. M'Laughlin, 
came into the house, looking very angry; he asked 
me if I had any recommendation to him. I told 
him I had not. He then told me he could not receive 
me. I showed him my credentials as a preacher in 
the Methodist Church, but he cared not for these. 
I then asked him to let my articles lay a few hours 
in his room, but it was not granted. He is an ill- 
natured, old Roman Catholic. I went down to the 
river and staid with some people who were going 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 53 

to travel with me. Next day we went down to the 
mouth of the Willamette River, then went up it in 
a canoe, and laid on the bank. Next day I went on 
foot across the mountain, in company with Samuel 
Kelsey. Climbing over the mountains and travers- 
ing the plains, fatigued me ; and by so overheating 
myself, it gave me the chills and fevers for near a 
week. 

October 29th. Wet weather is setting in, and it 
continues until the ist of April, and then it is dry 
all summer. Not much corn can be raised here. 
Good wheat, oats, barley, onions, potatoes, beets, 
carrots, peas, beans, turnips, carrots, etc., grow 
very well here. These prairies afford fine grazing; 
for on them, horses, cattle, sheep and hogs, will be 
as fat in the winter as in the summer. The streams 
all abound with salmon. The tide-water comes up 
to the Falls. There are several fishing places along 
these rivers; plenty of springs of clear, good, and 
cold water. The best portion of the country lies in 
the valleys along the streams. Elk, bear, and deer 
are found in the mountains. The people dwelling 
on the plain are subject to the chills and fevers. I 
soon recovered, though, from this disease, and 
began to try to preach to the people at this place, 
where there are but ten or twelve families. 

Here I met with brother and sister Carter, who 
are excellent people, and were kind to me. Sister 
Carter is a true believer in Christ. I then staid a 
few weeks with Mr. Kelsey, who was one of our 
company from the United States. I built a house 
on an improved piece of land, to live in by myself; 
but I soon found it would not do. Mr. Kelsey and 



54 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

his wife were very poor, though kind. These times 
passed very unpleasantly. I attended the preaching 
of Mr. Griffin, a Presbyterian missionary from the 
east. He showed me no friendship at all. Some- 
times I would exhort after he was done, asking the 
leave of the people; but he would leave the house. 
He soon lost the good will of the people. They 
seemed desirous that I should preach to them. I 
felt my heart much pained to see the coldness of 
the preachers, and the low state of religion. I got 
word from Willamette to return there. So I started 
back, in company with brother and sister Carter, 
and brother Ab ert. The waters being very deep, 
we had to cross on logs and swim our animals. We 
lay out that night in the woods. Next morning 
started early, and reached the Falls of the Willam- 
ette, at brother Waller's and brother Wilson's. 
Passed a waste cabin, where I had laid out a few 
nights before, hunting horses. I tarried at the 
Falls of the Willamette, waiting for a passage up 
the river. I tried to labor in picking brush and 
clearing, for brother Waller; but could not do 
much at it. 

Here Satan much disturbed my peace. I was 
much plagued with needless fears and distress of 
mind, looking back to my family. Nearly three 
thousand miles from my home, my clothes begin- 
ning to get thread-bare; somewhat affected with 
the rheumatism; my money almost gone; my breth- 
ren seeming to look coldly and indifferently at me ; 
all combined to depress me in spirits. I attended, 
with brother Waller, some Indian meetings, and 
tried to preach to the white people. I prayed 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 55 

mightily to God to deliver me from all my needless 
fears, and from all sin. On New Year's day, I 
started in company with some Frenchmen, up the 
Willamette, in a canoe. This rapid stream is very 
dangerous to navigate above the Falls. Some 
canoes had been overset here; but the Lord pre- 
served us. I had given my name, and the name of 
the place where I lived, to brother Waller; so that 
in case I should be drowned or die, he might write 
liome to my family. I came to our landing place, 
and then I had to walk about fifteen miles through 
the water and mud. It was sometime in the night 
before I reached Mr. Roe's, where I staid that 
night, and next morning started on foot for the 
Methodist mission, with my saddle-bags on my 
back. I traveled all day in the wet, and at night 
missed my way; and coming to a water about a 
hundred yards wide, I feared to enter in. I 
hallooed, and a Frenchman rode across to me, and 
I followed after him. The water was about knee- 
deep. I got to Mr. Jennings, a French Catholic, who 
was very kind and friendly to me. I was very wet 
and cold. This day's traveling caused me to lay by 
nearly all the winter with the rheumatism. I this 
night felt happy in God, to think he had brought 
me safely so far, it being now January 6, 1842. 
Next day, Sunday, I got to the Methodist mission, 
and heard brother Parish preach. Their meetings 
still seem cold and flat. At night, I attended prayer 
meeting. I do not feel well, either in body or soul. 
My only prayer is, that God would give me victory 
over myself, that I may be wholly given up to him. 
I told the missionaries they might do much more 



56 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

for the Indians than they were doing, as they had 
no schools, and very few meetings for the Indians, 
and at some stations, no preaching to them at all. 
I soon fell under their displeasure. They examined 
m.e about my authority to preach; I showed them 
my credentials. They asked me if I had no recent 
recommendation from the elder or circuit preacher. 
J told them I had not. Then, said they, we cannot 
receive you as a preacher. But this did not shut up 
my way; for I had plenty of friends to preach to, 
without these few individuals. These dear people, 
who are sent to preach to the Indians, I fear have 
either lost the spirit of their station, or else never 
had it. 

I went to brother Lasley's, and staid a week; 
although the old man is, in his own way, very stiff, 
and rigid, and self-conceited. He was very kind 
and obliging, however, to me. Brother Jason Lee 
came in, and staid all night. We had considerable 
talk about the state of the mission. He told me 
that T knew but little about the state of the mission, 
as T was only a stranger passing through the coun- 
try ; and counseled me not to state any thing about 
them, except what I knew. I replied, that I should 
state only what I knew, and what I had good rea- 
son to believe. "At this time," said he, "we are pre- 
paring to erect a very large building, for the pur- 
pose of teaching the Indian children." I believe 
that it is brother Lee's intention to do good for the 
heathen; but it c-eem? he has a great deal of busi- 
ness on hand, which seems a hindrance to the work 
of religion. They have had some kind of a sch )ol 
heretofore, but I believe not to much purpose. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 57 

These people are so scattered up and down in the 
mountains and valleys, that it seems hard to make 
much progress ; and in the summer, they are all out 
digging roots and hunting. And in this scattered 
situation it is hard to keep up any kind of a society, 
until the young ones are informed by schools, and 
get to farming, and become a more settled people; 
and until our missionaries succeed in this work, I 
fear there will be but little good done towards re- 
ligion ; for while they live in their old Indian habit?, 
they will not live up to any kind of discipline. They 
are a poor, indigent, and distressed people. 

In conversation with brother O'Neal, he tells me 
that the white people live without any forms of 
law; but in general are very honorable in paying 
their debts, and give notes and bonds. They have 
no sheriffs, constables, fees, nor taxes to pay. They 
profess to be very hospitable to strangers, and kind 
to one another. No breaking each other up for 
debts. Here are no distilleries, no drunkenness, 
nor much swearing. They seem, indeed, to be a 
very happy people. They have large droves of 
horses and cattle, who graze on the green grass all 
winter; and there is no other cost or trouble to 
raise stock, than to keep them from going wild. 
The greater part of our American mountain men, 
and some of their Indian women, have joined the 
Methodist Episcopal Church, and are good citi- 
zens. In this country there are about four classes 
of people: ist. The Hudson Bay Company, mostly 
Canadians. 2d. The New England missionaries. 
3rd. The French farmers, mostly Catholics. 4th. 
The mountain men, who have settled along the 



58 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

Willamette River. At Vancouver, they keep a large 
quantity of goods, which they sell very cheap. Eng- 
lish ships come in about twice a year. They belong 
to the Hudson Bay Company, and exchange their 
goods for beaver, and other skins, flour, beef, and 
pork. There was lately a very serious circumstance 
took place, with a man named Monger, one of the 
mechanics of the Presbyterian mission, who con- 
sidered that he was a great prophet; and said that 
if he were to burn himself to death, God v/ould raise 
him up again. To test the truth of what he said, 
he went into a shop, by himself, where he made a 
great fire, and then hauled out the coals, and laid 
down upon them. His wife being in another part 
of the house, heard him making a great noise, and 
ran into the room, and found him struggling in the 
pangs of death. She, with the help of some others, 
got him out of the fire. He, then saw his dreadful 
delusion, and prayed to the Lord to forgive him. 
He lived three days after this, and then expired. 
He had always appeared to be a sincere man, and 
we hope that the Lord heard his prayer and for- 
gave him. How careful ought Christians to be to 
shun the delusions of the devil ! 

The Roman Catholics here appear to be buying 
the good will of the people by presents, and, I 
believe, are trying to get the control of the Indians. 
I fear our missionaries are too scornful toward the 
poor, naked Indians; indeed, too much so with all 
the poor people. 

^ January 25th. I offered a few thoughts on jus- 
tification and redemption in their class-room. My 
mind is a good deal troubled about the difficulties 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 59 

of my returning home. These words came very 
forcibly to my mind: ''Let not your hearts be 
troubled: ye believe in God, believe also in me." 
These were great words of joy and comfort to my 
soul. I could not for a moment doubt the promise 
of God. Why am I not more resigned to suffer all 
things that come upon me? 

Next Sabbath I went out to Mr. Rowe's, about 
sixteen miles, to preach; but the appointment had 
fell through. Went that night to Dr. Bailey's, and 
returned next day to the mission. My knees became 
very painful with rheumatism. I went to brother 
Abernathy's who used me very well. I then went 
around among the people; but had very hard and 
dry times. O, why is "the god of this world" so 
much reverenced? Why is it that these mission- 
aries, who are sent here to convert the Indians, 
cannot find any time to do it? These poor, tawny 
sons of the forest, wandering about with no kind 
shepherd to watch over them, are often driven 
from door to door. They look dirty and filthy, 
which does not suit the delicate feelings of the peo- 
ple. They are often heard to pray for the Indians, 
yet they do but little for them. "But we intend," 
say they, "when we get better fixed, to do some- 
thing for them;" and some of them say, "We ought 
to have higher salaries, and then we could do more 
for them. But we must take good care of our own 
household, for 'charity begins at home.' " One 
Indian said, "What did white men come here for, 
if they could not bear with poor Indian? Why do 
they not try more to learn us the good book?" They 
often reply, "We will do something when we get 



60 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

ready." These poor Indians almost starve for 
something to eat, which causes them to steal, and 
then they often get whipped for it. The poor things 
know but little about farming, and their game is 
nearly gone. I know not what the consequence 
will be. They have great complaints against the 
white people, seeing they know not what plan to 
fall upon to make their living, and the white peo- 
ple are killing all their game. 

I staid a few days at brother Holeman's and 
tried to shave shingles three or four days, but i^ 
hurt my knees so much that I had to quit it. I then 
tried the cross-cut saw three or four days, but this 
also hurt my knees so that I could not stand it. 
Brother M'Cadden, brother Hines, and his wife, 
and brother Campbell and his wife, gave me some 
articles of clothing, which were very acceptable. I 
hope the Lord will reward them. Here I saw a 
scene of distress which shocked me. There came 
a company of poor, starved Indians through the 
mud, and finding an old horse of Jason Lee's 
which had died, they cut him up, and carried him 
off with joyful looks and glad hearts, although the 
carcass was so stinking that we could hardly come 
near it, and the hogs and dogs had been eating at 
it. 

I will now give a short account of the missions 
in Oregon: 

First. The highest up is the Catholic mission, 
on the Columbia River. Mr. de Smidt, and two 
other priests, are stationed there. They have bap- 
tized a great many; six hundred the first winter, 
and a great many more since. Mr. Blancet, on the 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 61 

Willamette, has a great many French and Cana- 
dians. 

Second. The Presbyterian mission — Dr. White- 
man's and Mr. Gray's. They have a respectable 
congregation of Indians; yet they have had some 
trouble, and have had their lives threatened by the 
Indians. They have begun a very good farm, and 
the past summer, raised about six hundred bushels 
of wheat, and a small crop of corn ; about one hun- 
dred bushels of all kinds of melons, pumpkins, cu- 
cumbers. All kinds of vegetation seem to grow 
well. Some timber and beautiful plains all about, 
and a small mill. The natives are mostly of the 
Skyuse Indians. They are making small progress 
in farming. Mr. Spaulding, on the Snake River, 
among the Nezperees, is doing well, and is learning 
the Indians to farm; and his wife is learning the 
women to spin and weave. They have begun to 
raise flocks of sheep. Mr. Walker and Mr. Smith 
are missionaries, some distance apart, and are try- 
ing to teach the Indians. Next is Mr. Griffin, at the 
Qualitine Plains ; but he is not doing any thing. 

Third. Is the Methodist missions. The first is 
Mr. Frost, at the mouth of the Columbia River, 
among the Chenooks and Klackamus Indians, be- 
low Fort George; but there is nothing doing there 
for the Indians. Brother Cohen, one of the preach- 
ers, has feft there. 

Fourth. In the care of Dr. Richmond, on the 
other side of the Columbia, at the Puget Sound, 
among the Nisqually Indians ; who, it is said, have 
chiefly left there. 

Fifth. The station at the Falls of Willamette, 



62 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

where brother Waller is the preacher, and brother 
Wilson the mechanic. These are of the Klackamus 
Indians. Brother Waller preaches almost every 
Sabbath, but seems to do but little good. There is 
no society there. They say that the Roman Cath- 
olic priests prejudice the minds of the Indians 
against them. Brother Waller and brother Wilson 
are very much enthralled in working and trading, 
and have but little time to do any thing for the 
Indians. Perhaps times may soon alter. 

Sixth. At the Dalles, or Narrows, on the Colum- 
bia River. Brother Daniel Lee and brother Per- 
kins, preachers, and brother Brewer, farmer. They 
have had a great many under their influence, and 
some souls have been converted. They have a tol- 
erably good society. Brother Lee and brother Per- 
kins seem very diligent in traveling round, and 
preaching, and I believe are faithful men. They 
were assisted by a blacksliding preacher (Mr. 
Wright), who was reclaimed amongst them, and 
the Lord blessed his labors in that place. They are 
about building a log house to preach in. They have 
got a small farm, and raise some wheat, and made 
about four hundred bushels of potatoes this sum- 
mer. This is a very hilly place, but healthy. Good 
salmon, and other fish, in abundance. 

Seventh. Brother Jason Lee's, on the Willa- 
mette River, surrounded with beautiful plains. 
They are among the Callapooyan Indians. They 
have considerable business going on, and own 
herds of cattle. Their mission cattle number about 
three hundred head. It is somewhat sickly here. 
Mr. Jason Lee is the superintendent, and brother 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 63 

Lasley and brother Hinds the itinerant preachers. 
Brother Lee has lost his second wife, and 
brother Laslie his first. Brother Shepphard died. 
Brother Parish, is a blacksmith and preacher; 
brother Babcock, doctor and class-leader; brother 
Abernathy, store-keeper; Mr. Raymond and Mr. 
Bears, farmers; brother Whitcomb, very sickly, 
and not able to do any thing. They have 
about two hundred acres of land under culti- 
vation, and hire Indians to work for them. They 
live in good, warm log houses, and have plenty to 
live on, and live well; have as good horses to ride 
as any men in this country, and generally ride ac- 
cording to the customs of this country — that is, go 
in a full gallop ; and they dress as well as any other 
set of gentlemen in the Oregon Territory. In this 
station there are neither Indian schools nor Indian 
meetings this winter. The Indians appear to be 
getting a little shy of them, and distant. The 
French farmers and French Catholics accuse them 
of being too unfriendly to strangers, and the poor. 
Brother Babcock told me they were willing to re- 
ceive me as a man, but not as a preacher, because 
I had not a recent recommendation from the pre- 
siding elder. Truly, I did not look much like a 
preacher ; for after traveling three thousand miles, 
my old iinsey coat looked very shabby. But many 
of the people about there said, if I had worn as fine 
a coat as Dr. Babcock, I would have been very well 
received. I felt contented; but was very sorry to 
see some of them so high-minded, and doing so 
little in the cause of God, and fear they have lost 
the spirit of their station, and have turned their 



64 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

attention too much to speculation. I leave this to 
be determined in the day of judgment ; but fear the 
bad example of some here will do great hurt to the 
heathen. 

Eighth. The new station at the mill, nine miles 
above the old station, on the Willamette River, sit- 
uated on a delightful plain, beautifully studded 
with green groves of fir trees, and having a creek 
running through it, with a grist-mill and a saw- 
mill, which sunnlies the country all around with 
grinding and lumber. Here we see herds of cattle 
grazing on the plains. Brother Jason Lee is super- 
intendent of the whole. Brother Judson, preacher 
and mechanic, who labors very hard, has charge 
of the mills. Brother Auley, preacher and me- 
chanic, also labors hard, with a number of 
hired men, working at the school-house. They are 
about building a large seminary, which, if com- 
pleted and properly conducted, may be of great ser- 
vice. Here brother Lee has held some Indian 
meetings, in a small shantee near the mill. I at- 
tended with him at some of the meetings, and the 
Indians behaved very well. Some others and my- 
self exhorted after him. Brother Campbell is class- 
leader, and brother Hinds sometimes meets the 
children in another shantee. Here, I thought, there 
were too many missionaries living in one place. It 
may be brother Lee is right in keeping them all to- 
gether, but I thought differently. Brother Lasley 
and brother Hinds stay too much at home, and only 
preach sometimes on Sunday. I have not seen any 
Indians converted here, nor do I know of any. 

I was now about beginning to fit up for my re- 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 65 

turn to the States, it being the ist of March. This 
seemed a long and tedious winter to me. Brother 
Sutton, brother Campbell, and brother Judson, 
drew up a small subscription, and made up plenty 
to supply me on the road. Brother M'Cadden and 
brother Larrison gave orders to Dr. Whiteman to 
give me two horses on the head of Wallawalla 
River. A few nights before I started, I staid with 
old Mr. Jervais, a Frenchman. He gave me a de- 
tailed account of the Indians, who, he said, were 
rapidly diminishing in number, and wasting away, 
on that side of the Mountain. He had lived here 
most of his time for thirty years. He says more of 
the Indians have died within ten or fifteen years 
past, than formerly, and that he has known three 
thousand to die in two years on the Sacramento and 
Maries Rivers, and in other places in the Oregon, 
mostly with the ague and fever and venereal dis- 
eases; together with the effects of exposure to the 
wet weather, and for the want of food. Sometimes, 
he says, he has seen whole lodges of them lying 
dead together, the little infants sucking the breasts 
of their dead mothers, and no one to do anything 
for them; that he has known them to kill and eat 
their own children, when almost starved, and has 
known an Indian to choke his little child to death, 
because it was cross, and hindered its mother from 
digging roots, which are their chief food. A 
Frenchman told me that he knew three Indians to 
kill eleven men, women and children, and live on 
their flesh all winter! and they showed him their 
scaffold, on which they had dried their flesh! 
Those three men, he said, looked fat and well. Those 



66 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

poor, wicked, and degraded creatures, seem as if 
destined to destruction. They are always at war 
with one another, and sell their prisoners for 
slaves, as the white people of our slave states sell 
the negroes. What a monster is man in his natural 
state, without cultivation, or religion! 

Those Callapooyans, on the Willamette River, 
appear to be a lazy and degraded people. All the 
rivers between the Willamette and California, are 
mostly settled with uncultivated people. On the 
Ambakaw River there are beautiful plains, which 
may make handsome farms. The Yamhill River 
also affords a beautiful prospect, south of the Wil- 
lamette. All along here, the country is settled with 
Indians. 

April 3d. I attended sacrament among the mis- 
sionaries. It looked like a cold, lonesome time. I 
took but little part with them, but wished them all 
well in my heart : although sorry to see such a cold, 
indifferent spirit among them. Tuesday, I started 
down the river in a canoe, in company with Jason 
Lee, Lasley, Rogers and Ross, and two Indians. 
This day it rained on us all day, and it was a very 
cold rain. We staid with Charles Ross that night, 
on the bank of the river. The next day we had a 
pleasant time to sail, and reached the Falls that 
night. I tried to preach that night at brother 
Hathaway's, from Luke xii, 21 : "Strive to enter in 
at the strait gate." Brother Lee and brother 
Lasley exhorted after me. I think some good im- 
pressions were made on the minds of the people. 
The next morning, soon after we started, the rain 
began to fall, accompanied with high wind. We 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 67 

soon found ourselves wet and cold; and the river 
being very rough, we stopped about 2 o'clock and 
camped under some fir trees. The next morning 
we started, and reached Vancouver about 11 
o'clock, and camped on the bank of the river. Here 
brothers I.asley, and Lee, and Clark, and Rogers, 
went and lodged with Dr. M'Laughlin, the great 
rich man, who had refused on a former occasion to 
receive me. Here I staid in company with Ross, 
and some Indians, with the property, at the camp. 
It was very cold, rainy, and windy, and I was in- 
vited to the house of a Scotchman, who kept a hos- 
pital near our camp, and was well provided for by 
Dr. Douglass, one of the Hudson Bay Company. I 
felt well resigned to the will of God, whether to be 
exalted or abased. 

Mr. Laslie preached at M'Laughlin's on Sunday. 
He tried to tower very high before the nobility, 
but seemed to have little power to his preaching. 
Mr. Lee exhorted after him. The old doctor 
M'Laughlin, attended meeting with his Catholic 
brethren, in another place. He appears to have the 
uncontrolled sway of all the people around the 
place and the Fort, mostly Canadians, French 
and Indians. His hirelings he calls his ser- 
vants; and they all appear to have to stay with 
him until he gives them a discharge. He is a 
wicked old sinner. Our Methodist missionaries 
seem very much at home with him, and he seems 
somewhat kind to them, I suppose for self-interest. 
He is very wealthy, and belongs to the English 
company. We staid nearly ten days, expecting a 
ship, which we thought had some letters for Jason 



68 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

Lee; but started a few hours before the ship came 
in. But we heard the roaring of the cannon, as a 
signal that the ship was coming in. We lay that 
night about ten miles from Vancouver, on the bank 
of the river. The next day was the Sabbath, and 
we lay by. On Monday, 22d of April, we started 
up the river, passed a place called Cape Horn, and 
some high, large cliffs, like pyramids. It rained 
and snowed on us all along the hills. On Wednes- 
day we passed the Cascades. In two places we had 
to carry our canoes and baggage about half a mile, 
through the large, rough rocks and mud, along the 
bank of the river. While we were busy doing so, 
the Indians stole some of our articles. All night we 
lay in the wet and cold, the rain still continuing on 
us. We had a sort of tent-cloth, which did but 
little good. We kindled a fire next morning, cooked 
breakfast, made some coffee, and it seemed to 
nourish us. This morning we heard a tremendous 
rumbling, like thunder, but found it was the rocks 
falling from the cliffs. 

This day we passed some very dangerous places 
on our route, where several people had been 
drowned. Here Mr. Lasley showed us a place 
where he and his company had been overset; but 
fortunately, all were saved but one child. The wind 
blew fair, and we hoisted sail, and went up the 
river very fast. The waves run very high, and 
sometimes ran over the sides of our canoe. The 
next day we reached the Dalles, or Narrows. Here 
we held some meetings, and I felt at liberty to en- 
joy myself among Christians. I tried to preach 
to them, and exhort. These kind people used us 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 69 

very well, and seemed full of zeal for the cause of 
God. Here the Indians, also, seem to have religion. 
Brother Lee and brother Perkins seemed to be 
doing much good. On Sunday night I proposed 
taking the parting hand at a prayer meeting, and 
to bid them farewell in public. Brother Jason Lee, 
brother Lasley, and brother Rogers rose up and 
opposed it, yet could assign no reason why; but 
said, we are all determined to meet in heaven, 
without giving each other our hands; and said 
further, that their prayer meeting was not quite 
over, which I thought was very imprudent in them. 
They hurt some feelings by it. I told Mr. Lee the 
next morning that I thought he acted very impru- 
dently. He had been too full of vain talk while 
coming up the river. That day we parted; and 
Ross, Rogers, and myself, with some Indians, pur- 
sued our journey, leaving the others at the Dalles. 
We hired some Indians, with their horses, to carry 
us up to Dr. Whiteman's. That day we were in 
sight of Mt. Hood and Mt. St. Helena, whose tops 
were covered with snow. We reached De Shutz 
River after dark, and it was too deep to cross that 
night. It rained on us almost all night. Next 
morning we arose, wet and cold. The Indians soon 
came and helped us over, and swam our horses 
across by the side of their little tottering canoes, 
for which we gave them some tobacco, and contin- 
ued our journey in the rain. Came to the Johndays 
River. It was very deep and full, and we crossed 
in the Indian's little canoe, and swam our horses as 
before. That night we camped on the bank of the 
Columbia River. Next morning came to the Uma- 



70 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

tilla River. It was also very full, occasioned by the 
rain, and the melting of the snow. The Indians 
helped us across, as formerly, and we paid them in 
tobacco. These Indians are the Umatilla's. About 
twenty of them staid with us part of the night, and 
I sung and prayed with them, and exhorted them 
to turn to the Lord and seek for religion. A young 
Indian by the name of Elijah, a son of one of the 
chiefs, who could talk some English, had obtained 
religion, and was my interpreter. He exhorted 
them some himself. They seemed to be much 
affected, and were very friendly. Next day we 
bought some fish of them, and starting on, passed 
the Wallawalla ; and late at night we reached some 
Indian encampments, where we lodged with, and 
bought some venison of them. Next day we trav- 
eled over some high, rich prairies, and saw some 
beautiful droves of Indian horses; and that night 
reached the Presbyterian mission, where Dr. 
Whiteman and Mr. Gray live. 

Here we spent two weeks, waiting for Mr. 
Grant and his company. I lodged with Mr. Gray, 
my old friend, who was very kind to me, as was 
also his wife. Next Sabbath I tried to preach to 
the people here. I bless the Lord for opening my 
way by good friends. 

May 4th. Coming in at the door of Mr. Gray's 
house, an Indian within was fixing the lock of his 
gun, when it went off, just as I was stepping up 
before the muzzle of it, which I did not see. I had 
just made a short pause, which saved me from be- 
ing shot through the head. I bless the Lord for 
his mercy, in protecting me from this sudden death. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 71 

This evening, Mr. Edward Rogers arrived, to go 
with us to the United States. We are now but three 
in number ; but I hope the Lord will open our way. 
We are dreading the high waters, in consequence 
of the snow melting in the mountains. Here we 
see the Indians, both men and women, out in the 
plains and mountains digging roots, to dry for food 
for themselves. But some of them are beginning 
to make little farms, and raise wheat. Mr. Walker 
and another missionary, with their families, have 
arrived at Dr. Whiteman's, having come about one 
hundred and eighty miles to hold an annual meet- 
ing. They galloped out, about four or five miles 
into the plains, to amuse themselves. They had 
with them a coarse violin, which was poor music 
on Sunday. They read two sermons, which was 
all the preaching that was done. They appeared 
very dull in religion; and I cannot hear them say 
that they have any Indian converts. 

The Indians have no ceremonies in their mar- 
riages. When the young woman makes the match, 
the young man gives her a horse, and her father 
gives her one also. This ratifies the bargain 
between the two young people. They must also 
have the consent of the chief of that tribe; then 
they are considered man and wife. Among other 
tribes it is somewhat dififerent. When a young man 
of the Shiennes marries a young woman, all of her 
sisters are counted his wives. On the 17th of May 
we started, after having completed our outfit. Each 
of us had one pack-horse with provision. Mr. 
Gray offered to furnish me with every thing I 
needed, without charging me a cent. Mr. Cornelius 



72 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

Rogers also ofifered to help me ; but I thanked him, 
telling him that Mr. Gray had fully equipped me. 
Mr. Rogers, however, was very helpful to me. We 
went on seven miles that day, and waited for Mr. 
Grant; for he had lost twenty-one of his pack- 
horses, and was detained hunting them. Next 
night we joined company with him on Horse Creek. 
His company was composed of French, and In- 
dians, and half breeds, mostly Roman Catholics. 
There are some beautiful prairies about here, but 
no timber except on the creeks, where there was 
some cotton wood. A beautiful creek runs through 
these plains. This place is very healthy, and well 
calculated for raising horses, cattle, and sheep. 
They say that on the head of the Wallawalla, in 
this country, the ewes will have their lambs twice 
a year, and young heifers, sixteen months old, will 
have calves. Cattle and horses need no feeding in 
the winter. 

Next day we crossed the Umatilla River, and 
passed the farm where the young chief lives. Here 
is good land, beautifully diversified with low hills. 
The Indians are beginning to make small farms. 
The chief has a handsome place, and a tolerably 
good house. We camped about six miles from the 
Umatilla River. All the way along, we could see 
the snow upon the Blue Mountains, which lay on 
our left hand. Here we passed some of the pret- 
tiest gangs and bands of horses I ever saw in my 
life, belonging to the Indians. Some of the Indians 
own four or five hundred head. All the plains and 
valleys are covered with green grass to within a 
few yards of the snow, which covers the moun- 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 73 

tains. 22d. We ascended to the top of one of the 
spurs of the Blue Mountains, where we passed 
some snow drifts, and descended among the beau- 
tiful pine trees. We lay that night on a beautiful 
plain, where we had good grazing for our horses, 
and plenty of wood, and good water. We had a 
heavy frost, and some ice, that morning. That day 
being Sunday, I requested Mr. Grant to rest; but 
he said he had got so far behind-hand that he was 
obliged to go on. On Monday night we reached 
the Grand Round. This is a beautiful valley, all 
covered with green grass. The mountains around 
it are covered with snow. Here the pine grows on 
the mountains, but none in the plains. This is on 
the waters of the Snake River. On Tuesday night, 
we lay on the waters of Powder River. There is 
plenty of good land all around us, and good water. 
Next day we traveled through rich plains, and the 
mountains lay on our right hand, covered with pine 
trees. All through this country, good mill-seats 
abound. We had deep waters to cross all along, 
caused by the melting of the snow on the mount- 
ains. We passed some banks of snow that were 
three feet deep. We had rain that day; and at 
night lay on a branch of the Powder River. We 
had plenty of cold water to drink, and plenty of 
timber to make our fires. Here I heard it thunder, 
for the first of any consequence since last June. We 
crossed the main Powder River, and passed 
through some rich land, with good water, and large 
plains. It rained on us that day also. We camped 
that night on a small branch of Bruly River, and 
next dav we traveled over rough ridges and hills. 



74 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

June ist. We stopped on Snake River, at Fort 
Bois. This day I heard some dreadful oaths from 
Mr. Grant, about some threats which he had heard 
from Mr. Bridger, one of the American Fur Com- 
pany, against Fort Hall ; and respecting some goods 
which had been stolen by Mr. Bridger's company 
from the Hudson Bay Company. 

We are now detained on Snake River. I feel 
very unpleasant in my present situation, on account 
of the noise of the French and Indians. The French 
are all married to Indian women. We started on 
up the Snake River, where we were tormented with 
mosquitoes, and almost stifled with dust ; and when 
chopping some wood, I struck the tomahawk into 
my shin-bone, and it bled very copiously. Mr. Grant 
soon came up, and applied some medicine to it, 
which stopped the blood, and it got well in a few 
days. Here I had the charge of three horses (one 
pack-horse) and my gun to carry, which was very 
fatiguing to me. My situation seems unpleasant; 
for, instead of being in the pulpit on the Sabbath 
day, I am packing my gun on my back, and driving 
my horses before me. I feel much worn-out and 
tired. My eyes were almost ruined with the dust. 
Mr. Grant gave me a piece of a green silk veil, 
which he tore from his own. This I put over my 
eyes, and found it to be a great help to me. Mr. 
Grant has been very kind to me, although he is 
subject to intoxication. After leaving Fort Bois, 
we crossed Wyhee River, and so continued up 
Snake River. 

Here an unhappy circumstance occurred with an 
Indian woman. Her husband had three wives, 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 75 

and had turned her away and took another in her 
place. At night she put on her best clothes, made 
some small arrangements, and took a rope and 
hung hersejf upon the corner of a high rock. Her 
mother passing by saw her hanging, apparently 
dead, and soon cut her down. Mr. Grant was im- 
mediately sent for. He bled her, and gave her 
some medicine, and she came to again. She could 
not speak for some days. What villians these men 
are, that act so cruelly toward their women. 

All along up this river we could see snow on the 
mountains, while we were suffering with heat in 
the plains. Here we passed by the Trois Butes, 
which were on our right hand. We hear some 
unfavorable news about the hostility of the Indians 
between here and the United States, and we have 
no assurance of company farther than Fort Hall, 
except one man besides ourselves, making four in 
all; but I am determined to persevere, unless my 
way is completely stopped up, and trust that God 
will protect me, and open the way for my return — 
though it looks dark and gloomy, through lone- 
some hills and valleys, and over mountains which 
reach almost to the clouds, and across waters, deep 
and dangerous. 

Here we had an example of the hardihood of the 
Indians. One of their women, whose husband had 
gone on to Fort Hall, staid behind the company by 
herself, and was delivered of a still-born child, and 
buried it in the sand ; then mounted her horse, and 
came on. Some of the company, missing her, went 
back about seven or eight miles, and met her com- 
ing on. 



76 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

Thursday, June i6th. We arrived at Fort 
Hall. Here we saw the Snake Indians holding a 
dance around a scalp, which they had taken from 
the Black Feet Indians. They had set the scalp 
upon the top of a pole. Here we learned from the 
Indians, that the Black Feet and Crows and Sioux 
were determined to kill all the white people they 
could. This did not disturb me much, for I 
trusted in the Lord, that he would be with me. On 
Sunday I tried to preach to these people, who 
seem to be hard-hearted and wicked. Mr. Grant 
was drunk, and made some disturbance. Here I 
was told that the Sanpach Indians would sell their 
wives for horses; and sometimes kill their horses, 
and eat them, in case of hunger. Mr. Eubanks, 
who lived in Fort Hall, showed me a woman whom 
he lived with, and for whom he had given two hun- 
dred dollars. 

June 28th. We left Fort Hall; camped with a 
large company of French and Indians, who were 
on a hunting expedition. Next night we staid on 
■'X[ Ross Creek. Mr. Shutz is now our leader. Two 
Frenchmen and their women are still in the com- 
pany with us. We staid next night on the head 
waters of the Pont Neuf River, and next night at 

i"^ the Soda Springs. Next day we traveled twenty 
miles up Bear River; then turned to the left, and 
left Bear River to the right hand. We saw snow 
for five or six days on the mountains, whilst in the 
valleys the grass is much burnt. Next day we left 

^^ a beautiful stream and crossed the mountains. We 
went through some small thickets of aspen trees, 
and some pine. We saw a band of elks and ante- 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 77 

i^ lopes. Staid that night with a company of Ponark 
Indians, on a creek of Ham's fork of Green River. 
We traded with these Indians, exchanging some 
tobacco and ammunition, for some buffalo skins, 
and halters for our horses; and next night we lay 
^^ on a small branch of Green River. 

July 3d. We reached Green River an hour after 
night, where we expected the company to rendez- 
vous; but found nothing there but one dog. We 
had expected some company from there to the 
United States. 

Here I was told that the Eutaw Indians wish to 
have a missionary to come and settle amongst 
them, and to learn them to raise grain. I am of the 
opinion, that on the east side of Big Salt Lake, 
that Bear River empties into, would be a great 
place to establish a mission, and well calculated for 
raising all kinds of grain. It is good, rich land, a 
well watered and healthy country. Fish and fowls 
are very plenty. A beautiful prairie, about one 
hundred miles long, lies between the lake and the 
mountain. The plains are covered with green 
grass all winter, and well calculated for raising 
stock. Some pines on the mountains, and cotton 
wood along the creeks and rivers that flow into 
the lake. There is plenty of salt on the edges of 
the lake. It is about two hundred and fifty miles 
in circumference, and lies in 40° north latitude. 

From Green River, we turned out of our in- 
tended route, and went about a southwest course, 
in order to avoid the Black Feet Indians. 

July 3d. Reached Bridgers Fort. Company 
had left for the United States about thirty days be- 



?>e 



Y8 TOVR TO OREGON TERRITORY, 

fore, and we saw nothing there but three little, 
starved dogs. We saw the grave of an Indian 
woman, who had been killed by the Shiennes. From 
here we could see the mountain-tops spotted with 
snow. Mr. Shutz began to talk of going back ; but 
still I felt confident that there would be some way 
opened for me to get back to the United States ; for 
I trusted in the Lord. This night I was somewhat 
alarmed by the running of the horses, and we 
thought that the Indians were trying to steal them ; 
but next morning we found them without much 
trouble. Next day we had a rough road to travel. 
^'^ We came to a beautiful valley, where we found a 
fine, cool stream of water. Next day we traveled 
through brush, and pine saplings, and rocks, and 
logs, so that we could scarcely get along with our 
pack-horses. We went through piles of snow two 
feet deep, and camped on the side of the mountain. 
It both rained and snowed a little. 

Next day we traveled through brush and logs 
and rocks till 12 o'clock, and only gained half a 
mile. Then we began to ascend the mountain. The 
wife of one of the Frenchmen was our pilot. She 
had two children along; one tied to a board, and 
hung to the horn of the saddle, and the other in a 
blanket, tied to her back. When we got to the top 
of the mountain, it was raining and snowing and 
thundering, and I was shivering with the cold. 
There are elk and sheep on this mountain. There 
were snow piles on the mountain; and yet there 
was green grass, and flowers, and it looked like the 
spring of the year. In descending the other side of 
the mountain, we passed the same kind of loose 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 79 

rocks that we had to come up on. It was very dan- 
gerous on account of the rocks, which were easily 
started to rolHng down the mountains, endanger- 
ing the legs of our horses. At night we got down 
to a beautiful, clear lake, at the head of a small 
creek that came out of the mountains. Here we 
staid two days. Mr. Miles and his squaw were 
both taken sick. Mr. Shutz started on Saturday, 
by himself, to go to Rubedeau's Fort, on Wintey 
River. 

Next day (Sabbath), Rogers and Ross were 
anxious to start on to Rubedeau Fort. I gave up 
to go with them, (not, however, without some 
scruples of conscience for traveling on the Sab- 
bath), as I was anxious to know the prospect of 
company to go with us from thence to the States. 
So we started, on and left two men and their wives 
at the lake. We soon got lost, having no pilot, and 
had to travel by guess; pressing over steep hills, 
and through brush, and logs, and saplings, and 
rocks. Our horses were almost distracted with 
swarms of flies. That night got to a small prairie, 
by a small stream, where we staid all night. Next 
morning we continued our way through logs and 
brush again, and got to the brow of the mountain, 
on its southern declivity, but saw no way down. 
We went back and forth seeking a place to get 
down, and about an hour before sunset, we com- 
menced the descent. Our horses were sometimes 
sliding down among the stones. I went foremost ; 
and while leading my horse, I was afraid of get- 
ting my bones broke with the loose rocks that were 
now and then rolling down from above. We scram- 



80 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

bled along, however, till we got down to the base 
of the mountain, after dark, which was about a 
mile and a quarter. When we reached the bottom 
we were wet and cold, and found that we had lost 
four of our horses, two of them with packs on 
them. Next morning we found them, and were 
glad to find that nothing was lost but my saddle- 
blanket. This morning we had some frost. We 
are now on the head of the Wintey River, down 
which we pursued our journey toward Rubedeau's 
Fort. About two miles of our journey was almost 
impassable for the brush, and logs, and rocks. Then 
we got out of the mountains into a prairie, and 
reached the Fort about 2 o'clock. 

We had to wait there for Mr. Rubedeau about 
eighteen days, till he and his company and horse- 
drivers were ready to start with us to the United 
States. This delay was very disagreeable to me, 
on account of the wickedness of the people, and the 
drunkenness and swearing, and the debauchery of 
the men among the Indian women. They would buy 
and sell them to one another. One morning I heard 
a terrible fuss, because two of their women had ran 
away the night before. I tried several times to 
preach to them; but with little, if any effect. 

Here I heard the mountain men tell of the mis- 
erable state of the Indian root-diggers. Numbers 
of them would be found dead from pure starva- 
tion; having no guns to kill game with, and poor 
shelters to live in, and no clothing except some few 
skins. These creatures have been known, when 
pressed with hunger, to kill their children and eat 
them! and to gather up crickets and ants; and dry 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 81 

them in the sun, and pound them into dust, and 
make bread of it to eat! These creatures, when 
travehng in a hurry, will leave their lame and blind 
to perish in the wilderness. Here we have a strik- 
ing example of the depravity of the heathen in their 
natural state. I was told here, of a Frenchman, 
who lived with an Indian woman, and when one of 
his children became burdensome, he dug a grave 
and buried it alive! At another time he took one 
of his children and tied it to a tree, and called it a 
"target," and shot at it, and killed it ! 

Mr. Rubedeau liad collected several of the In- 
dian squaws and young Indians, to take to New 
Mexico, and kept some of them for his own use! 
The Spaniards would buy them for wives. This 
place is equal to any I ever saw for wickedness and 
idleness. The French and Spaniards are all 
Roman Catholics; but are as wicked men, I think, 
as ever lived. No one who has not, like me, wit- 
nessed it, can have any idea of their wickedness. 
Some of these people at the Fort are fat and dirty, 
and idle and greasy. 

July 27th. We started from Rubedeau's Fort, 
over the Wintey River, and next crossed Green and 
White Rivers. Next night we lay on Sugar Creek, 
the water of which was so bitter we could scarcely 
drink it. Here two of Rubedeau's squaws ran 
away, and we had to wait two days till he could 
send back to the Fort for another squaw, for com- 
pany for him. 

August ist. We camped under a large rock, by 
a small stream, where we could get but very little 
grass for our animals. Next night we lay under 



82 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

the Pictured Rock, and being sheltered from the 
rain, slept very comfortably. Next day we trav- 
eled over rough roads and rocks, and crossed the 
Grand River, a branch of the Colorado, which runs 
into the Gulf of California, at the head thereof. 
Next day crossed another fork of Grand River, 
and came to Fort Compogera, below the mouth of 
the Compogera River. 

August 14th (Sunday). I preached to a com- 
pany of French, Spaniards, Indians, half breeds, 
and Americans, from Proverbs xiv, 32: "The 
wicked is driven away in his wickedness: but the 
righteous hath hope in his death." I felt the power 
of the word, and I believe some of the people felt 
also. I spoke plainly and pointedly to them, and 
felt as though I would be clear of their blood in the 
day of eternity. 

Next day we started to go through New Mexico, 
which is a long distance out of our route, to shun 
the range of the Apahoc Indians; and at night we 
camped on a small creek. Tuesday morning, we 
started, and crossed Union River; and next day, 
crossed Lake River, and lay that night on a small 
creek. Here are good, clear streams of water; 
but rough, hilly roads — rocky, sandy, and gravelly ; 
good grazing for our animals all the way. 

August 19th. We could see snow on the mount- 
ains. We had a very cold rain. Next day we 
came to Rubedeau's wagon, which he had left there 
a year before. He hitched his oxen to it, and took 
it along. This morning my moccasins were frozen 
so hard I had to thaw them by the fire before I 
could put them on. Here we had reports of In- 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 83 

dian hostilities having commenced near Sante Fe, 
in New Mexico. Rubedeau sent on an express to 
see whether it was so, and found it to be a false 
report. 

Sunday, 20th. The frost was like a little snow. 
My blanket, which I used for a tent-cloth, being 
rained on the night before, was now frozen quite 
stiff and hard. We left this beautiful plain, which 
lies between two mountains, with a fine stream of 
water running through it. How different my feel- 
ings were on this Sabbath day, with my gun on my 
shoulder, and my butcher-knife and tomahawk by 
my side, in this heathen land, than they would have 
been in the pulpit with my Bible and Hymn-Book 
in my hand. On Sabbath evening I tried to preach 
to them; but being wet and cold after traveling 
through mountains and plains, we had but little 
satisfaction. Next morning my blankets and 
moccasins were frozen hard again. Some snow and 
rain fell during the night. I pray God to give me 
more faith, more patience, and more courage to 
preach the Gospel. 

We are now on the waters of the Del Norte 
River, which falls into the Gulf of Mexico, and are 
passing the North Mountain. We are now travel- 
ing down Tous Valley, which leads down to Tous 
(a Spanish village) and Sante Fe. This is a beau- 
tiful valley, about eighty or a hundred miles long. 
We remained sometime in this valley, encamped 
by some beautiful streams of water, waiting for 
the express to return. We then traveled for sev- 
eral days about a south course, and encamped in 
the neighborhood of Tous. Here I tried in vain to 



84 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

persuade our company to leave Rubedeau; for he 
would detain us too late, as winter was coming on. 
It will be recollected that there were only four of 
us in company, bound for the United States; and 
Rubedeau had hired three of them to stay with 
him. 

We are now in New Mexico, surrounded by 
Spaniards. They live in little houses covered with 
mud. The sides are mostly of posts set in the 
ground, and filled up with mud. In these houses 
they are warm and comfortable, on their dirt 
floors. Some of them build their houses with what 
they call ''dobbeys," made of mud, in the shape of 
brick. Here are beautiful, clear streams of water, 
and a very healthy country. It is no uncommon 
thing for th^ Spaniards in this region to live to the 
age of a hundred years. Their crops are mostly 
wheat. They sow it in the spring, and their har- 
vest comes on in September. They have no fences 
around their farms; for every farmer that has 
stock, keeps herdsmen to guard his flocks. And, 
like ancient shepherds, they have large flocks of 
sheep and goats, to watch both day and night. The 
milk and meat of the goats are part of their food, 
and they also make excellent cheese of the milk. I 
went out to see them making molasses from their 
small corn-stalks. They ground them, and then 
pressed out the juice, and boiled it into molasses. 
A great part of their ground they water by dig- 
ging small channels, to convey the water to their 
farms. Mr. Turley, who lives here, has a mill and 
distillery, and makes a great many drunkards. 
Here the time seems to pass away very heavily. I 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY, 85 

feel very restless and lonesome, and want to be 
traveling towards home. These Spaniards are all 
Roman Catholics, and live neatly and cleanly in 
their houses. 

We started on for Bent's Fort, which is about 
two hundred and fifty miles distant, on the Ar- 
kansas River. We traveled a north course, up the 
valley which we came down before. We have now 
furnished ourselves with provisions, and have 
nothing to hinder us ; and we mean to travel on as 
fast as we can. We saw Mr. Collins, who said he 
had been chased by the Indians. He was one of 
the trappers, and had come nearly the same route 
which we had. We crossed some high spurs, and 
saw it raining from the dark clouds below us. We 
heard the thunder roaring and saw the lightning 
flashing, while the sun was shining brightly where 
we were. That night we reached Red River, near 
where some Spanish shepherds kept their sheep, 
where we lodged all night. Next day traveled up 
the same valley, where we saw the Two Butes, 
which we had seen twenty days before. 

September 3d. At night we reached Tous 
Mountain. Here were plenty of bears, deers, and 
antelopes. That day it rained on us, and we were 
wet and cold. Next day we crossd Tous Mountain, 
and camped on a small river, a branch of the Ar- 
kansas; on the next day crossed the Arkansas 
River, and camped there that night. We then 
went down through the plains. We staid on the 
Arkansas two nights, and saw bands of buffaloes. 



86 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

We now meet a great many travelers. This is 
poor sandy land. 

September i6th. We reached Bent Fort, Ar- 
kansas River. We now have warm days and cool 
nights. I tried to preach on two Sabbaths; once, 
from Revelation vi, 17: **For the great day of his 
wrath is come; and who shall be able to stand?" 
There was a Baptist preacher present, who was a 
backslider; who, as I afterwards learned, took 
notes of my sermon, and spoke his sentiments on it 
after I was gone. These people were wicked, and 
would play cards and billiards on the Sabbath. But 
they were very civil, friendly, and kind to me. 
There was not as much swearing and drunkenness 
as at other places I had passed. Here we heard 
of eight men being killed this summer on this side 
of the mountain, by the Indians, at diif erent times ; 
two of whom had been killed on the route we had 
come along. At one time we had some trouble 
with our horses, they having strayed away. We 
had one more added to our company — a Mr. 
M'Carty. Here I bought some sugar and coffee, 
for each of which I gave two dollars a pound ! 

I have now about fourteen hundred miles to 
travel before I reach home. Five of us started on 
the 26th of September, to wit: Solomon P. Sub- 
lette, A. Shutz, James Ross, Mr. M'Carty, and my- 
self. We passed seventy or eighty lodges of the 
Shiennes Indians, as we came along. A lodge is 
made of about eight or nine elk skins, dressed and 
sewed together, and stitched over poles sunk in 
the ground, and fastened at the top. This makes a 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 87 

good, warm house to winter in. One of these will 
hold about twelve or fifteen persons. The first day 
we started, we traveled down the river about four- 
teen miles and camped. We have about seven hun- 
dred miles to travel to get to the United States, 
through a very dangerous route, on account of the 
Pawnee and Camanche Indians. Next night we 
ate supper after sun-down; then started and trav- 
eled about five or six miles out into the prairie, and 
laid down and slept without fire, in order not to let 
the Indians know where we were. Here we saw 
droves and bands of bufifaloes and wolves, some 
droves a mile long, pleasantly grazing on the beau- 
tiful plains. Sublette shot down a young bull, by 
which we got plenty of fresh meat. Every night 
we were disturbed by the howling of the wolves, 
and the noise of the bufifalo bulls. One night I 
heard a noise near my bed; and throwing my 
blanket off of my head, beheld a wolf standing close 
by my side; but as I moved he instantly sprang 
away. Next morning we started by daylight. 
That day we saw hundreds and thousands of buf- 
faloes feeding on the plains on both sides of the 
river. 

October ist. We stopped to kill and dry meat. 
We traveled for fourteen days without being out 
of sight of buffaloes. We had some cold, windy 
days, and camped in the open prairie every 
night. We always traveled several miles after 
dark, and left the road and lay all night with- 
out fire; then rose before day, and pursued our 
journey. One evening, after sunset, as we were 



88 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

about starting, a grizzly bear came galloping up, 
and stood upon her hind feet. One of the men 
quickly shot her down. As we came along, the 
small prairie dogs would come out of their little 
holes, which they had dug in the ground, barking 
at us. This day we saw thousands of buffaloes and 
antelopes, quietly feeding along the plains ; and we 
also saw gangs of black, white, gray, and prairie 
wolves. After we crossed the Pawnee fork of 
little Arkansas, we saw no more buffaloes. We saw 
a company of the friendly Caw Indians, who told 
us that the Pawnees were all gone off. We traded 
some with them. 

Here my mind was burdened on account of some 
of my company, who indulged in profane swearing 
and ill language. We got to the Council Grove, 
and remained there parts of two days, and two 
nights, and traded some with the Indians. This 
grove is about one hundred miles from the state of 
Missouri, in a fine, rich country. The bottoms are 
well timbered, and are about a mile wide ; timbered 
with walnut, hickory, ash, hackberry, sycamore, 
cherry, and pawpaw, which is the first of this sort 
of timber that I have seen since I left the States. 
Here we got some honey from the Indians, which 
was the first I tasted since I left Missouri. Here 
will be a beautiful country, if it is purchased by 
the United States, which is probable, as the In- 
dians are now talking of selling out. 

Next morning we started, and traveled six miles, 
when Sublette's horse took sick, and the company 
agreed to stop for that night. Being anxious to get 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 89 

home, I left them, and traveled on sometime after 
night, and lodged by myself, in a grove, by a small 
creek. I was somewhat alarmed at seeing fire at a 
distance before me; and thinking it to belong to 
Indians, I hitched my horses and went to it, and 
found it was only some logs burning. I then re- 
turned to my horses, tied them up, and kindled a 
fire; cooked my supper, and ate it; then committed 
myself to the hands of the Lord, and lay down to 
repose, and slept comfortably till about 3 o'clock in 
the morning. I then arose and started on my 
journey (it being moonlight), and traveled on till 
next night without halting, except to let my horses 
eat a little at the spots of grass. The plains being 
burnt over by the Indians, my horses were almost 
starved. I traveled that night about two hours 
after dark, then took up my lodging in a grove, 
near a water course. The night being wet and 
rainy, I crept under a large log, and slept comfort- 
ably. Next morning I arose about an hour before 
day, and started; traveled about eight miles, and 
came to where four men (hunters) were camped, 
two of whom were Colonel Boon's grandsons. It 
seemed to do me good to see the faces of white 
men. They invited me to eat breakfast with them, 
which I did, and felt much refreshed. I then started 
on, and two of these men went with me, and 
showed me the way. I traveled on, and reached 
Elm Grove, making about thirty miles that day. 
Here I made a small tent of willow bushes, which 
I covered with my blanket, expecting it would 
rain. I then ate my supper, and turned out my 



90 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

horses, and commended myself into the hands of 
the Lord, as usual. I awoke about 3 o'clock, and 
started; missed my way, and became somewhat 
bewildered, but soon found the track again. I 
traveled on that day till dark, and then let my 
horses graze a little. I sat down and went to sleep. 
On awakening, I arose and took the back track, for 
my head seemed to be turned around. I traveled 
some distance that way, until the moon rose. I 
then saw that I was wrong, and changed my 
course. I had traveled nearly all this day without 
water, and kept on till almost midnight, and came 
to a small pond of water. I drank, and after eat- 
ing some supper, laid down and slept four hours, 
leaving my horse to graze on the burnt plains. In 
the morning started again, and traveled until about 
10 o'clock, which was on the Sabbath day. I there 
found water, cooked my breakfast, and ate and 
drank joyfully. Spent a while in prayer, with 
thanksgiving to the Lord, who had preserved me 
from the wild beasts, and the ruthless hands of the 
heathen Indians, and was happy in my soul. I 
then traveled on, and reached the Shawnee mission 
that evening. On this day I saw an Indian coming 
from the plains in a gallop, and thinking he might 
be an enemy, I soon loaded my gun ; but he turned 
another way. When I reached the Shawnee mis- 
sion, I can hardly describe my feelings of gratitude 
that I had once more reached the land of civiliza- 
tion. This is just on the Missouri state line. The 
people came out to see the old man, who they all 
thought was dead, and would return no more. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 91 

That evening I went to meeting, and heard 
brother Berryman preach; and an Indian preacher 
exhorted after him, who seemed to speak very 
lively. They both spoke in the Indian language. 
Next morning I disburdened myself of my cook- 
ing utensils, and other baggage, which were now 
useless to me, and purchased some few necessary 
articles out of the store. I then exchanged two of 
my horses for one, with brother Evans; but when 
I saddled him, and mounted, he ran away with me 
and threw me ofif; but God preserved my life, and 
I was not hurt. I then gave the horse up, as he 
would not suit me, and next morning I traded three 
of my horses for one, they being poor, and almost 
starved to death, having traveled three hundred 
miles over the burnt plains, where there was but 
very little grazing. I resumed my journey on the 
25th of October, and rode to Independence; tried 
to preach to a few at night. Here I staid with 
brother Pertee and brother Ford, who told me that 
they never expected to see me again. Here I met 
with Mr. Rickman, one of the company who had 
traveled to Bear River, and had parted with us 
there to go to California. He had just returned to 
the settlements. We were very glad to see each 
other, although we had parted with some degree of 
strife. Next night I reached brother M'Kinney's, 
who was a Methodist preacher. Felt myself very 
comfortable. Next night came to brother Harri- 
man's, an old Methodist; and next night to War- 
rensburg, and staid with brother Davis. Next night 
staid at brother Walker's, and preached there. The 



92 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

next day, which was the Sabbath, staid for class 
meeting among the blacks. There appears to be a 
great work of religion among the black people. I 
hear of great revivals all along here. I preached 
that night to them again. The black people seem 
to have the power of religion. I staid that night 
with brother Forbus, an old acquaintance of mine. 
Next day reached brother North's. They were 
very kind to me. I traveled on for several days, 
and reached St. Louis, meeting with many of my 
old acquaintances. Staid all night at William 
Sublette's. Met with Col. Benton, a member of 
Congress, and had some talk with him about the 
proposed occupation of the Oregon Territory. He 
said he intended to do all he could in Congress for 
the encouragement of the settling of that country. 
Here I was very kindly treated. Next day crossed 
the Mississippi, and went to brother Ludwick's, a 
Methodist preacher. They seemed glad to see me. 
Continued on to brother Wollard's, where I had 
staid before. Here I felt comfortable. There I 
heard of the death of my brother, Robert Williams, 
who lived in Tennessee. Still traveled on, crossed 
the Wabash, and went through Terrehaute. Staid 
at brother Gray's, an old acquaintance of mine. 
Meeting kind friends every night, I reached Wood- 
bury, and staid at brother Needham's. He and his 
wife had joined the Methodists, and have professed 
to experience religion since I had been there before. 
I preached twice there, and felt comfortable. Sun- 
day following, I preached in a small town, and 
dined with Dr. Burnet. That night preached at 
Bridgeport, and staid at brother Kelley's ; and next 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 93 

day passed through Indianapolis, and staid at 
brother Rector's, a Methodist preacher. Here I 
felt refreshed. Next day I went through Shelby- 
ville, and staid at night with brother Henry Fisher, 
who was an old itinerant. I was very joyful to see 
him, not having seen him for thirty years before. 
He is still on his way to heaven. For several days 
past I have had some extremely cold weather to 
travel in, and some rainy days. This morn- 
ing I started, and brother Fisher went a few 
miles with me. The company of our old Meth- 
odist preachers seems very refreshing to each 
other. After brother Fisher left me, the wind be- 
gan to blow and the snow to fall, which made it 
very disagreeable. I reached home about lo 
o'clock at night, and found my children, that were 
at home, all well. 

I now look back at my travels, and see the 
promise of the Lord verified : "I will not leave thee, 
nor forsake thee." I can see the toilsome and dan- 
gerous way I have traveled; the many lonesome 
and sleepless hours I have spent in the mountains 
and on the plains, where nought but the wolves and 
the owls broke the silence of the night, and nothing 
but the wide-spread canopy of heaven over me. 
For upwards of seven months in succession, I have 
not slept in a house ; have lived among the heathen 
and wild beasts the last two summers; and have 
tried to bear testimony to the name of Jesus in the 
mountains, on the plains, on the hills and in the 
valleys, wherever sinners were to be found. I am 



94 TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 

now advanced in years, and the evening of life is 
at hand. My travels and troubles will soon be 
over; and ere long, I expect to take up my per- 
manent abode in the high realms of glory ; 

''And range the blest fields on the banks of the 
river, 
And shout hallelujah! for ever and ever." 

Joseph Williams. 



THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

There mountains high in grandeur rise, 
That almost pierce the arched skies; 
The vales beneath are dark and low. 
Where streamlets murmur soft and slow. 

'Tis there the panther's loudest yell 
Re-echoes to the distant hills — 
There hungry bears, with angry growl, 
And famish'd wolves, with dismal howl, 

In fearful sounds they seem to tell, 
That there's no place for man to dwell: 
But man will have a dwelling there, 
In spite of panther, wolf, and bear. 

There rivers flow both deep and wide — 
Along the vales in grandeur glide; 
And often swell with angry waves. 
To threaten men with watery graves. 



TOUR TO OREGON TERRITORY. 95 

But still the desert we pass through, 
And bring the Savior's death to view ; 
The Word on craggy mountains preach, 
With many prayers and tears we teach. 

Some hut or camp to shield my head, 
With no kind friend to give me bread; 
Though wet and cold, I lay me down, 
To slumber on the chilling ground. 

Souls shall from these mountains rise, 
To deck our crowns above the skies; 
If they by us are brought to know 
That God can pardon sins below. 

My soul has caught the heavenly flame, 
While musing on this glorious plan. 
Of calling sinners home to God, 
To know and taste a Savior's love. 




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